Entering Kakadu 21st July

  

We pick up our park passes and enjoy the exhibits and presentations at Bowali Visitor Centre before setting up camp at Merl campground. We spend some of the arvo at Cahill's Crossing which is the main river crossing into northern Arhnem Land. We were fortunate to arrive there at the peak of high tide. We saw 4 large salties and numerous non reptiles fishing for barra at the crossing. We observed the rapid reseeding of the water level - about 700mm in just 20 minutes. In this time we saw some brave locals crossing in their vehicles with water washing over their bonnets. Some had snorkels, some didn't. All while a salty watched from about 15m from them, probably wondering where he left his tin snips.

We attend ranger guided walks at Ubirr past several rock art sites which are different from those at Uluru as these are xray and contact art. We learn about aboriginal law, moiety, creation & kinship as well as the Rainbow Serpent.

The day finished upon a rocky lookout with a sunset view of the Nadab floodplain at Ubirr.

Corroboree Billabong Tuesday 19/7/11

We enjoyed a fantastic 3 hour lunch time cruise of Corroboree Billabong which is part of the Mary River. Apparently this area has the largest concentration of saltwater crocodiles in the world and we weren't disappointed. We got use our new found  knowledge of crocs (from yesterday).

  

We also saw & learnt about many species of bird including Ibis, Jabiru, Jacana, Egrets, Herons, Kites, Magpie Geese and the White Bellied Sea Eagle. We saw the enormous nests of the Jabir and Eagle.

Our informative guide gave us insight into traditional indigenous uses of the local flora and fauna. We even saw a water buffalo having a midday snooze under a tree. After the cruise we headed back to the road and ended up at the Corroboree Tavern and Caravan Park where we set up camp. 

Darwin Monday 18th July

While the car is being serviced, we head for Crocosaurus Cove which claims to be "the ultimate urban wildlife experience & home to the Cage of Death". Crocs, fish, snakes, lizards, and turtles everywhere you looked. The kids once again jumped at the chance to handle snakes and lizards when the opportunity arose. We watched the fish being fed and liked the archerfish spitting for their food. The croc handlers fed the big crocs and then the kids and Nick went 'fishing' for some of the juvenile crocs while Marie took our photos.

We saw one of the pythons feast on a mouse and got to hold a baby croc. There was lots of information and it was a great educational experience for us all.

While we were having lunch we were able to check our emails and were lucky to receive one from a friend who had spent some time in Darwin and had some suggestions regarding trips to do while we were here. As a result we finished lunch and were able to book a cruise at Corroboree Billabong for the next day. 

Darwin Sunday 17th July

Visited Darwin Memorial Church and learned of it's history. We visited the WWII Oil Storage Tunnels which were constructed to protect the Navy's oil supplies from bombardment during WWII. The 5 steel lined tunnels extend from the wharf & run under the city but they were never used for their intended purpose which was a strategic fuel depot.   Due to lack of maintenance when the US forces left in 1945, they remained unused.

We explored Darwin's Waterfront Precinct, saw a movie to cool off before a visit to Mindil Beach Sunset markets.

If only money was no object Nick would have started with freshly shucked oysters topped with smoked salmon followed by ... We did however sample deep fried Mars bar  & ice-cream. Mmm..

Darwin Saturday 16th July

The Australian Aviation Heritage Centre is on the itinerary today. This centre houses an impressive presentation of aircraft and displays depicting the Territory 's involvement in aviation, both civil & military.
Aircraft displays include the massive Boeing B-52 Bomber, only 1 of 2 on display in the world outside of the USA. Also displayed was the Mirage and Sabre jet fighters as well as a replica Mk VIII Spitfire. The wreckage of a Japanese Zero Fighter which was shot down on the first air raid on Darwin on 19/02/42 was also exhibited.

Claire was impressed by the first women entering Aviation history such as Amy Johnson and Amelia Erheart. We all enjoyed the commentary provided by those who were there. Although not on display, we enjoyed the history of the Catalinas as Nick's Grandfather was a mechanic during WWII on these.
Cooled off @ the Leanyer WaterPark on the watersides provided free.

The Lost City

Today we headed off to Wangi Falls which were still closed for swimming due to the late wet season. Although we couldn't swim we still had a magnificent view of the twin falls cascading down the rugged rocky cliff face. We had a short ( compared to our previous efforts) stroll through the semi rainforest that surround Wangi Falls before heading for the Lost City.

These magnificent rocky structures resemble buildings and are found 10 km down a 4wd track that was quite rough in places. As we wandered around the imposing structures Angus and Claire enjoyed scaling these outcrops. Angus even managed to find himself a fair way off the ground and struggling to find his way back down. Dad had to come to his rescue but no sooner was he on the ground he was back up the next rock. We then headed for our swimming hole from yesterday only to find it so busy that we couldn't find a park. After trying another swimming spot and finding the same situation we admitted defeat and continued on our journey. 

Arriving in Darwin we started looking for a place to stay. After being disappointed with the first place we looked at, we headed for Lee Point village. We had met a Darwin local at Alice Springs who had recommend Lee Point and we were glad of this chance meeting. Lee Point do not advertise or take bookings and we were very happy to stay here for our time in Darwin. 

Darwin bound via Litchfield National Park

 From Hayes Creek we continued our journey north to the big D. Next port of call was Adelaide River. As we entered the town Angus was happy to see a collection of ' machinery'. We decided to let him investigate and turned into the Adelaide River Historic Railway Precinct which houses a wide array of early railway memorabilia and history of Adelaide River during WWII. After the bombing of Darwin, the Adelaide River area was selected as the headquarters and staging area for the Allied forces response to the Japanese Imperial expansion into the South Pacific. After spending a considerable time going through the various displays we then headed for the Adelaide River War Cemetery which is a poignant reminder of the human cost of war. After a somber time reflecting on the sacrifice made by these servicemen and women, and civilians, we continued on our journey.

We travelled onto Litchfield National Park which is one of the few places you can see magnetic termite mounds. We had gotten use to seeing the soaring mounds of the cathedral termites throughout the Northern Territory. Termites need to be able to regulate their environment especially temperature and moisture. Cathedral termites are able to retreat underground to escape the heat of the day but because the magnetic termites build on the floodplains, the ground is too wet for them to go far enough underground. They build their distinctive shaped mounds to catch the early morning and late afternoon sun. In the middle of the day the smallest profile of the mound is in direct sunlight so reducing the impact of the sun and subsequent heat. They build their flat sided mounds on a north / south axis hence their name ' magnetic '.

We then travelled further into the park where we went for a wonderful swim at Florence Falls where Claire was dismayed to find numerous small fish that were more than happy to swim around your feet and have an occasional nibble. Angus saw this as a challenge and spent a considerable time underwater trying to catch them. After our swim we tried to find a camp inside the park but were unsuccessful. We ended up at the Litchfield Safari Camp where we spent the night. 

Katherine Gorge onwards

Yes we were up when our noisy neighbours came home. We packed up camp and set off to explore Katherine Gorge. Having come up from the south where it had been 20 - 24 deg during the day, we had a shock when we found ourselves walking in 38 deg before lunchtime. We re-evaluated the need to continue exploring further and further up the gorge and were happy with what we had seen.

We then headed to Edith Falls hoping to get a swim and a campsite. Unfortunately we only could achieve one of these goals when we were greeted with a 'full campsite' sign when we arrived. After a quick dip we were on the road again looking for somewhere to stay.

We ended up at Hayes Creek where we had the unexpected company of a private helicopter drop in and stay the night. Tea consisted of a wonderful chicken and noodle stir-fry done on the BBQ before bedding down for the night. 

Alice to Katherine via Daly Waters and Mataranka 10-13 July 2011

After a long drive with an overnight stop at Banka Banka Station we arrived at Mataranka via Daly Waters. Daly Waters was the site of Australia's first international airport. Built in 1930, the airfield - 1700 metres long was a strategic destination for aircraft that had limited fuel range.

 A quick visit to the renowned Daly Waters pub was an interesting experience with allsorts of memorabilia on display. The kids were particular curious & amused as to why there were thongs, hats, bras, money, undies & money on display. Also on exhibit was the most remote set of traffic lights.

At Mataranka,  we explored the Elsey Homestead Replica that was used for the film  'We of the Never Never' based on the book by Jeannie Gunn. The family jumped at the chance of a soak in the hot springs. As the dust washed away and Angus submerged for the umpteenth time we decided that our day on the road was done. A quick trip up the road for some firewood had a fire going in no time. Garlic and cheese scones complimented the fettacine cabonara for tea. From Mataranka we travelled to Katherine.

Enroute, we visit Cutta Cutta caves National Park and with a local guide we are given a tour of the caves. Here we see limestone stalactites & stalagmites with flow stones and drip stones displaying crystal like formations. These caves are also home to 5 species of bat as well as shrimp. 

A quick visit to the Katherine  Information Centre, Subway and then to Woolies ensured we were informed, fed and restocked for our trip to Katherine Gorge. The kids were happy to see a pool as we setup camp. Marie and I were not happy to see the flying foxes in the trees around us. Pays to check the site before paying. Guess we will be up when they come home to roost !!!!

King's Canyon to Alice Springs 9th July 2011

Due to the fast approaching nightfall we ended up staying at the King's Creek Station approximately 30km from  King's Canyon. A brekkie of pancakes cooked on the BBQ gave us the fuel needed for the day. Break camp and into the car for the short ( 30 km ) trip to the Canyon where the Australian Outback delivered the goods once again. Given the choice of a short 1 hr walk along the floor of the canyon or the more arduous 3.5 hr 6 km rim walk, an unanimous decision to do the big walk was made.

After a difficult climb to the top of the canyon we were greeted with a view that definitely was worth the effort and a sign which congratulated us on the 100m straight up climb. 

As we made our way along the rim we were constantly amazed by the scenery of this fabulous place. A head for heights was needed to peer over the edge into the canyon ( something Marie and Angus did quite well ) I was happy to look at the photos later. We made it back to the car in one piece unlike Marie's sunglasses that I stood on coming to her rescue after a rock tripped her up. Sorry my love.





Peering over the rim



A view from the other side



We had a quick bite of lunch and headed back to Alice Springs via the Mereenie  Loop which is a 100km gravel road that is rough as guts in places and highway quality in others. We got into Alice late and rather than set up camp in the dark, we went the easy way and got a cabin. The kids jumped at the chance to watch TV while we threw the clothes into wash. Into bed late but clean and warm. 

Uluru day 3 Friday 8th July 2011

 As we had seen the sunrise over Uluru yesterday, we decided that the Rock was quite capable of doing it again without our supervision. We had a sleep-in, had breaky, packed up camp and headed to Uluru at a more reasonable hour. We were able to go on a ranger guided walk called the Mala walk. The Mala ( Rufus Hair Wallaby ) people were one of the many families to whom Uluru is an important cultural site. The Mala used the Rock as a virtual history book that they used to teach the younger members of their family their history, laws, morals, and beliefs. We saw the areas where the men and women, boys and girls would stay. There was rock art and the ranger told us what stories he was allowed to. The walk took us along the base of the Rock to one of the many semi- permeant waterholes that can be found around Uluru. We came away from the walk with a better understanding of how Uluru provided so many things to the Anangu ( people) who lived there. As we were short of time we drove around to the other side of Uluru where we went to another waterhole where we had lunch. After another visit to the cultural center where we reinforced what we had experienced, our time at Uluru was done and King's Canyon beckoned and it was there we headed next.

Uluru day 2 Thursday 7th July 2011

Those pesky clouds from yesterday have taken their leave and given us the opportunity to witness sunrise on Uluru. 3 degrees of coldness greeted us when we got out of our sleeping bags. Even the the car thought it was cold, warning us of the potential danger of ice on the road. We got to the viewing site in time to see the sun cast it's first rays on the Rock. An impressive sight yes but worth getting out of a warm bed ?? Don't know, still a matter for debate. Back to camp for a breaky of hot porridge, toast and coffee( tea for the kids).

After breakfast we were back on the road to the Uluru Cultural Centre for some information and ideas. As we had missed the 10am guided walk we decided to go to Kata Tjuta ( The Olgas ). When we arrived we went on the Walpa Gorge walk which was a 40min moderate walk into an impressive vista of soaring walls which made us realize how small we are. We then continued on to the Valley of the Winds walk. With plans to walk to the first lookout and then decide how much further we could go depending on time constraints we set off. Time became irrelevant as we entered a truly breathtaking area of the Australian outback. After 3 hours we returned to our car please with our efforts and extremely proud of our kids for completing a difficult 7.4km trek that had us scrambling up and down some very steep slopes. Leaving Kata Tjuta ( which means ' Many Heads' ) we headed back to the Uluru Cultural Centre where we used the free BBQs to cook some snags and bacon. Sticking them into the dreampot ( thanks mum and dad) we went back to the Uluru sunset viewing area where we had a brilliant backdrop for our roadside meal. No white tablecloths but wonderful just the same. Sure beats $90 per head for the same views. Home to bed and another day done.

Sunset dinner at Uluru

Alice to Uluru, Wednesday 6th July 2011

We slept through the alarm but still managed to get away at a reasonable time. Packing up is getting easier as we go. As we travelled closer to Uluru it started to rain!! According to the Alice Springs information center there hasn't been any rain out here for the last month. That's why we are the Rayners ( rainers ).
We stopped for lunch at Erldunda  roadhouse where it was a balmy 11 degrees at 1230. A large bag of hot chips and a loaf of bread out of the back of the car made for a quick hot meal that disappeared quicker than a grey nomad off to the next town.
We didn't get tricked into mistaking Mt Conner for Uluru, only because Marie had read about it earlier on during the day. Mount Conner is larger than Uluru and often causes excitement in tourists for the wrong reason.
 Further down the track we did get excited when we caught our first glimpses of the Rock and the Olgas in the distance. We arrived at Yulara which is a purpose built  community that was created to serve the needs of the tourists who flock to see Uluru. We quickly set up our tents and jumped back in the car to set off for the sunset  viewing area. Unfortunately you need sun for a sunset and as it was hiding behind the clouds we will try again tomorrow.

West MacDonnell Ranges Tuesday, 5th July 2011

We head out Larapinta Drive to explore the West Macdonnell Ranges. Firstly we visit Flynn's grave where he and his wife's ashes are interred.

Flynn's Grave

Next onto Simpson's Gap where the scenery and landscape are hard to capture on camera. We are not able to spot any black footed rock wallabies here.
Onto Standley Chasm - very busy with tour buses and therefore elected to keep moving but Angus spots a wallaby high in the rocks.

Hermannsburg Church

Our third stop is at Historic Hermannsburg, the first Aboriginal mission in the Northern Territory. It was first established in 1877 by the Lutheran Church. Also where famous Aboriginal artist Albert Namitjira was born, grew up and learned to paint the ghostly gums against the Finke River backdrop.

Require a permit - Mereenie Tourpass, to travel onto Aboriginal land and enable us to stop at Tyler's Pass for a view of Gosses Bluff.
This is a registered sacred site and is a remarkable ring of rugged hills and  is an ancient meteorite crater caused by a huge comet which slammed into the Earth. Originally  20kms in diameter, over the 14.5million years of weathering it has been reduced to just 5kms wide.
Ormiston Gorge sees us follow a track down by the river. Spot a dingo high in the towering red rock walls. Lots of dead fish again. Too late in the day for rock climbing into the Gorge.
Head back to town and Marie is breath tested in the middle of nowhere, these police officers will be cold tonight and have already started a fire.

Alice Springs Monday, 4th July 2011

We visit downtown Alice Springs and we are met with a peaceful NAIDOC march at the end of Todd Mall.  We visited such places as Hartley School, Adelaide House (the first hospital), Flynn Church, RFDS and Reptile Park. 2 x school tours make it busy here.

At the Reptile Park, we get to handle bearded dragons, blue-tongue lizards and an olive python Lexy. Nick not so sure of the snake however is won around in the end. Marie especially enjoys the "Thorny Devil".

Anzac Hill gives us a 360 degree view of the town and from here, we can see the Ghan in town.

Gem Tree to Alice Springs Sunday, 3rd July 2011

Yea, get to sleep in. Go fossicking for garnets. The kids both score garnets ranging from 3.25 – 5mm in size. Angus also scores a 4mm Zircon which the owner seems to think has fallen out of someone’s pocket at the site. We were sure that the owner was going to keep it from us.

Short day of driving today into Alice Springs.

Plenty Highway Saturday, 2nd July 2011

Last night, we were visited by native rats for dinner, hundreds of tracks evident on the route in along the river. Had a viewing of a meteorite shower known as June Bootids which is a yearly occurrence between 26^th June and 2^nd July. It occurs when Earth causes the orbit of Comet Pons-Winnecke, a short period comet which orbits the Sun every 6.37 years.

Make tracks and cross into the Northern Territory and onto the Plenty Highway near Tobermorey Station. Top up fuel at Jervois Station at $2.13 per litre.

Arrive at Gem Tree Caravan Park, camp oven scones for dessert, Dad is a great cook.

P.s Sorry about the untimeliness (?) of these blogs, however due to our remoteness and lack of 3G service occasionally. We are sure that you will all understand, thanks for your patience.

Waltzing Matilda 1st July 2011

Winton was originally know as Pelican Waterhole and was settled on the banks of the Western river approx 1km west of its present location. This settlement flooded in 1876 and the postmaster at the time changed the name to Winton after the suburb of Bournemouth in England where he was born. Word has it the name - Pelican Waterhole was too cumbersome to write on the postage stamps.

Visit the Elderslie St Waltzing Matilda Centenary Sculptures which commemorate the song's first public performance and marks its centenary in 1995.

Also see the QANTAS memorial cairn when on the 16th Nov 1920, QANTAS is born in Winton. Visit Jolly Swagman Statue which was sculptured in 1959 and is dedicated to Banjo Paterson and the many swagman who lie in unmarked graves throughout the country.

 Onto the Waltzing Matilda Centre which also has a statue of Andrew Barton Paterson (aka Banjo) with his lyrics behind him. He penned the ballad at Dagwood Station in 1885 and it is believed that the first public performance of the song was at North Gregory Hotel in 1895.

Onto Middleton which was originally a stage coach stop and made history when the first white men - McKinlay and his search party for Burke and Wills entered the area.

We continue through the Mitchell grass downs, flat topped mesas, plateaus and sandstone ranges onto the Cawnpore Lookout and Lilleyvale Hills.

Onto Boulia which is located 300 kms south of Mt Isa at the junction of the Diamantina and Kennedy Development Roads. The town's fame largely rests with the Min Min Light - a strange spectral light that can appear, hover, disappear and re-appear with an eerie will of its own. Most often described as a hovering luminescent ball, the light has teased travellers, never approaching close enough to be clearly examined.

Onto the Donohue Highway as far as Georgina River overnight.

Kids playing on the Georgina

Lark Quarry

Roads still blocked, elect to take our chances on the 370 kms dirt / mud. Head to Winton via Warbrecca, road tame till we get within about 200 kms from Winton. We spot emus, brolgas, hawks and cows on the predominantly unfenced roads.

Thanks to my Dad for all of those dirt roads travelled when we were growing up, I might have learned a thing or two.

Arrive at Lark Quarry Dinosaur Trackways where we travelled back in time 95 million years. It is the site of the world's only recorded evidence of a dinosaur stampede with over 3,300 fossilised footprints on display.

Travel onto Winton past Bladenburg NP where we find lots of people still stuck due to yesterday's road closures.

Windorah to Stonehenge

Absolutely poured rain last night, tents withstood the torrential rain. Discovered that what we thought was sand last night had turned into silt and very sticky black soil at our camp.

Explore the creek, lots of dead and decaying fish. Flood marks evident on the bridge and trees.
Windorah, we see the Solar Farm with 5 panels, Whitula Gate Museum (a 1800's replica cottage, aboriginal gunya and memorabilia).

Continue to Jundah which is aboriginal word for "woman". Sought out Magee's Shanty which the historic site of the shanty immortalised in Banjo Paterson's poem - "A Bush Christening". Unfortunately it is 90kms toward Yaraka, different direction from us.
Also find out that the road to Longreach past Stonehenge is blocked by a semi trailer bogged on the roadworks detour and another truck is overturned between Longreach and Winton. Lots of rain moving down from the north and the Jundah to Winton 4WD only with care.
Elect to travel to Stonehenge and wait overnight.

Opal Country 28th June 2011

Mitchell to Morven saw the most road kill so far. Charleville en route to Quilpie we see lots of emus, hawks and our first eagle.
Quilpie comes from the aboriginal work for "stone curlew" which is a large ground dwelling bird. It is also home to the "The Jewel of the Outback", the exquisite boulder opal. In Quilpie, we see lots of murals (apparently 45 of them).

The kids particularly liked the "Footrot Flats" mural outside the picture theatre.

Visit St Finbarr's Church where Father John Ryan was responsible for organising the opal inserts in the Lectern, Altar and Font in 1976.








Between Quilpie and Cooper Creek we come across  a 1.5 km dual lane road to be used for emergency aircraft landing (not sure who would use that lol).
Make it to Cooper Creek for camp, a magical peaceful place with amazing scenery.

Slow Going

Claire and Angus' birthday, slow to get going, only make it to Mitchell.
Lots of grey nomads.
Have struck a mice plague which Angus finds fascinating but Claire not so.