Day 1
We tag-along on a 4WD tour on a private sheep property - Arkaba, which is parallel to Wilpena. What an awesome experience led by a chap Terry who understands the hardships of being a grazier. He and his wife have made the "tree-change" from a sheep property on the Eyre Peninsula to enjoy this land. We are glad we have the 2 way radios as Terry gives us a running commentary on the history of the area and points out interesting geographical and environmental features as we go along. He keeps us entertained with stories relevant to the surroundings and we have a brilliant time. The Pajero has a good low range workout as we traverse mountain ranges affording magnificent viewa of not only Wilpena but the Elder Ranges. We are happy that we are driving this track, not walking it. The track finishes along a ridge of steep hills named "Stairway to Heaven" with views of Hawker in the far distance.
The afternoon is spent exploring with a walk to Hill Homestead. We follow Wilpena Creek through towering River Redgums, native pines, center acacias and a various array of wildflowers. We scramble up to Wangara Lookout past numerous skinks and lizards on the rocks. We rest for a panoramic view of Wilpena trying to envisage the coiled giant snakes that make up the Pound according to the traditional owners.
Day 2
We visit the old Wilpena Station. Nestled between the ABC Range and the northern ramparts of Wilpena Pound, this station is one of South Australia's oldest and best preserved pastoral settlements. We stepped back in time by 150 years to the early days of pastoral runs. We explored a world of improvisation, dogged with self sufficiency and a powerful instinct for survival. The buildings included the blacksmith shop, corner-post and stockyards, stables and harness room, cemetery, store and the homestead.
Onward bound to Stokes Hill Lookout and it is here that it becomes truly apparent of how over-grazing
by sheep and other introduced animal species have contributed to the erosion and barren-ness of this area. Rabbits and feral goats now add to the destruction of this land.
We head for Brachina Gorge in a hope of spotting the rare yellow footed rock wallaby.
Brachina Gorge road passes through a series of tilted rock formations bearing fossils from the dawn of animal life. Interpretive signs describe events up to 650 million years ago and is like a corridor in time.
Dusk is apparently the best time to spot the wallabies and we are also mindful of the 55kms to get back home in the dark with all of the other kangaroos, wallabies and emus on the road.
We find an area to safely pull over in the gorge which is composed of Bonney Sandstone which is predominantly a thick series of red sandstone and is 560 million years old. A male emu and his 7 chicks are not perturbed by our presence and continue to graze on "Salvation Jane" and other grasses beside the creek. Nick is first to spot the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby as it suddenly appeared on a dead tree over the water. They are rather timid creatures and are easily startled however the first wallaby is joined by anther just up the creek bank. We the watched as this colourful wallaby leapt with surprising ease up the steep craggy rock face. With special non-slip pads on the bottom of it's feet, it performs gravity defying feats, extending it's arms forward to balance it's fast precarious landings. These creatures were once more widespread however they were hunted by colonists as pets until almost extinct. They became a protected species in 1912 however their survival has again been threatened recently by large numbers of feral goats and rabbits. Forced out of their safe, rocky habitat in search of food and water in more open areas has made them easy prey for foxes and wedge-tailed eagles. It is here in Brachina Gorge that a massive restoration project by the SA g'ment has restored this creatures fragile habitat.
As we head back through the gorge on our way back to camp, we are rewarded with more sightings of yellow footed rock wallabies.
Thursday, 12 April 2012
Port Augusta to Wilpena Pound 14/09/11
Our morning is taken up spent in the Wadlata Outback Centre. Wadlata is a discovery centre that provided information about the incredible diversity and history of how the Flinders Ranges and the Outback evolved. Some of the interpretive stations included geological formations of the region; early explorers Eyre, Sturt, Stuart and Giles. We sat in an early picture theatre, an old Ghan railway carriage, peddled a Traeger pedal radio at the replica RFDS base to be taught via "School of the Air". We watched the story of Tom Kruse and the famous outback Marree to Birdsville mail run through the back of beyond, an amazing man. Once again, BHP Billiton provided insight into coal, gas and oilfields inthe areas we are about to travel.
With our brains well saturated, we move on through Quorn which is the home to the Pichi Richi Railway, a treasured steam journey which chugs it's way through glorious rugged countryside of the Pichi Richi Pass to Port Augusta. Dedicated volunteers breathed life into the abandoned railway in 1973, almost 20 years after the line closed. Alas, it only runs on Sundays. Quorn retains much of it's old world character with wide streetscapes and charming heritage buildings including the iconic Flour Mill building.
Also once a thriving railway town, Hawker not only has 1880 charm but the information centre has a seismograph that monitors regular activity.
Enroute to Wilpena Pound resort, we encounter numerous old homestead remains, a stark reminder that in the end - the land rules!
According to science, the geological forces which caused the formation of the Flinders Ranges warped and wrinkled the Earth 's crust in this area. Wilpena Pound is those wrinkles left after thousands of years of weathering. It is a natural basin, called a "Pound" because it looks like an animal enclosure. According to the Adnyamathanha story, two giant snakes ate up all of the people at a special corroboree and then coiled together to form Wilpena Pound.
We also realise that driving at night would not be a good choice as we encounter a considerable number of emus and kangaroos well before dusk.
With our brains well saturated, we move on through Quorn which is the home to the Pichi Richi Railway, a treasured steam journey which chugs it's way through glorious rugged countryside of the Pichi Richi Pass to Port Augusta. Dedicated volunteers breathed life into the abandoned railway in 1973, almost 20 years after the line closed. Alas, it only runs on Sundays. Quorn retains much of it's old world character with wide streetscapes and charming heritage buildings including the iconic Flour Mill building.
Also once a thriving railway town, Hawker not only has 1880 charm but the information centre has a seismograph that monitors regular activity.
Enroute to Wilpena Pound resort, we encounter numerous old homestead remains, a stark reminder that in the end - the land rules!
According to science, the geological forces which caused the formation of the Flinders Ranges warped and wrinkled the Earth 's crust in this area. Wilpena Pound is those wrinkles left after thousands of years of weathering. It is a natural basin, called a "Pound" because it looks like an animal enclosure. According to the Adnyamathanha story, two giant snakes ate up all of the people at a special corroboree and then coiled together to form Wilpena Pound.
We also realise that driving at night would not be a good choice as we encounter a considerable number of emus and kangaroos well before dusk.
Ceduna to Port Augusta 13th September 2011
We find ourselves once again in lush pastoral land and as we pass through the Windunna District, we discover a Farmers Memorial dedicated by numerous families and associations in the area.
We have lunch at Kimba and pass by the "Big Galah". A sign at the bakery proclaims that Kimba is halfway across Australia.
Port Augusta is where the Outback meets the Ocean & is called "The Crossroads of Australia" because roads from Sydney to Perth and Adelaide to Darwin pass through port Augusta.
Established in 1852, it was one of South Australia's major ports for wool, minerals and wheat with regular shipping until 1973.
This progressive town at the northern end of the Spencer Gulf is nestled on the calm gulf waters and is used as a base for exploring the Flinders Ranges, the Outback and the Eyre Peninsula. This is the reason for us being here also and intend heading north east tomorrow.
We have lunch at Kimba and pass by the "Big Galah". A sign at the bakery proclaims that Kimba is halfway across Australia.
Port Augusta is where the Outback meets the Ocean & is called "The Crossroads of Australia" because roads from Sydney to Perth and Adelaide to Darwin pass through port Augusta.
Established in 1852, it was one of South Australia's major ports for wool, minerals and wheat with regular shipping until 1973.
This progressive town at the northern end of the Spencer Gulf is nestled on the calm gulf waters and is used as a base for exploring the Flinders Ranges, the Outback and the Eyre Peninsula. This is the reason for us being here also and intend heading north east tomorrow.
Wednesday, 5 October 2011
Ceduna 12 Sept
Since Angus is keen on these wombat creatures, we visit the Wombat Fauna Rescue Homestead. This place is a refuge run solely on donations and faith by a lady named Val. We learn of the mysterious disease which has affected a number of these wombats whereby it's central nervous system is becoming affected once the animal reaches 3kg. Studies are being conducted by universities in South Australia. The kids get to interact and cuddle these animals along with lambs and a baby emu all of which have been orphaned.
From here we visit the fish markets and move around to Thevenard which is a deep sea port exporting facility for grain, salt, mineral sands and gypsum. Pinky Point Lookout provided a vantage point for sea-lion spotting and they were happy to laze around on the rocks to be spotted.
We continue around the shoreline and foreshore to the jetty where we find crystal clear waters but no fish to be caught.
The Nullarbor Run 9-10-11 Sept
Day 1 Kalgoorlie - Cocklebiddy
We set out from Kalgoorlie enroute for the Nullarbor including the longest straight stretch of road in Australia - being 146.6km in length.
We appreciate having to share the highway with other traffic including Royal Flying Doctor Servive aircraft.
We make camp at the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy hoping to find the caves.
Day 2
We find that the Department of Environment and Conservation has actually closed the caves to the public as they were underground and full of water.
We explore the old Telegraph Station ruins at Eucla. Just as we think that the sand is engulfing the ruins, we meet a fellow who says that more of the ruins are exposed now than when he saw them 15 years ago. We can work out the length of time that they were covered by the years of graffiti that are missing. We lunch and try to use the last of our fruit and veggies before crossing the border to SA. This includes cutting up our last onion and adding it to our sandwich. We set off for the border burping raw onion only to find we don't have to stop or get rid of stuff here. It's after Ceduna that the fruit-fly exclusion zone starts. We continue our journey and pass various trees adorned with items of apparel including shirts, shoes and underwear. Others are decorated with glass and plastic bottles, I guess you need to break the boredom when you do this trip all of the time.Day 3 final run to Ceduna
We hear an almighty loud noise to break the silence as we finish packing up and we turn on the two-way to hear that a truckie with a wide load has just seized a wheel bearing on his dolly. Not much we can do except get passed before the road is blocked. He has a couple of pilot vehicles with him to help.
The Nullarbor NP adjoins the Great Australian Bight and extends inland. It encompasses approximate. 2,867,000 hectares from WA border to the Nullarbor Roadhouse (297kms west of Ceduna), & north beyond the Transcontinental Railway Line. The Eyre Highway passes the coastal areas of the park and only traverses a short section of the true Nullarbor.
The Great Australian Bight Marine Park WA's established in 1996, further recognising the importance of these whales.
As we continue on, the landscape changes from windswept coast to green pasture with small earthy mounds. These mounds belong to the Southern Hairy-nosed wombat which breed prolifically in the good seasons. Thus the road kill changes from roos to huge solid wombats, better them than us. The sign at Nundroo Roadhouse says it all -
"Wecome to Nundroo,
Population 12,
Sheep 10,000,
Wombats 2.5 million".
We make it to Ceduna without making a dent in the wombat population.
Kalgoorlie 7-8/9/2011
The Mining Hall of Fame is our destination for today. Here we are able to immerse ourselves in mining history, memorabilia, and displays. We book in for an underground mine tour and another gold pour. While waiting we explore the various areas including the huge 793C dump truck and underground miner's refuge. There are many displays of mining equipment and infrastructure that keep us busy until it is our turn to gather at the massive shaft headframe.
We choose our hard hats and wait to take our place in the small cage for the journey underground. It is a tight fit for 2 adults 2 kids and an operator. We are told that when this was a working mine that this cage would take 6 beefy miners for each trip. We travel 35m to the first level where we disembark. We meet Jim who is our guide and an old hand at underground mining who in his later years has become a tour guide.
We are kept entertained with an educational, informative and funny narrative of the hardship and conditions of underground mining. Too soon we return to the surface informed and amazed at the tenacity and perseverance of the underground miners and the dangerous conditions that they encountered every day. We head to the gold room to see the gold pour. Although we had seen gold pours in Perth it is still interesting and informative. We find that the day has gone too fast and we still have much to see. We decide to come back tomorrow as our entry ticket allows us 2 days entry. 8/9/2011
We come back to the Mining Hall of Fame to see what we couldn't fit in yesterday. We go through the main display building which houses a huge display of minerals from around the world. There are more 'ite's' than you can poke a stick at. Stolzite, Manganocalcite, Rhodonite, Apophyllite, Kutnahorite, and Calaverite just to name a few. There are also many more well know minerals and gems such as Gypsum, Copper, Silver, Rubies, Diamonds and of course Gold. We learn about the different methods of mining that are required for the different minerals. We read stories of the various prospectors and of the booms and busts associated with the mining industry. After we had dug through all the information we could process, we took our leave and headed elsewhere.
The local RFDS base is our next stop but we arrive to late for the last tour of the day. We have a look through their display of memorabilia where the kids pedal on the Traeger pedal radio ( again ). We then head back to camp to find we had more neighbors in the overflow area where we were setup. After we all introduced ourselves the chairs and drinks came out and many stories of our separate adventures were told. We head to bed a bit later than planned but still set the alarm as we are off across the Nullabour tomorrow.
Kalgoorlie 6/9/2011
Today we head for the Superpit lookout where we can gaze into the depths of this massive open-cut goldmine. For years the area known as 'The Golden Mile' had been a series of individual mining leases where underground mining of the rich ore bodies was conducted by various mining companies and individual operators. A shrewd business man realized the need to progress to open-cut where the economic advantage of large scale operations would be more profitable. This business man started buying up the various leases in order to start what is now known as the Superpit. Unfortunately Alan Bond couldn't complete his plan and Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines Pty Ltd (KCGM) combined the entire area in 1989 and open-cut mining began.
From the lookout we watch the huge trucks and loaders operating at various levels in the mine and the drilling rigs drilling the precise pattern of holes required for blasting. After sometime watching these operations we take the chance to look at some of the various machinery on display when we notice the gravel that we are walking on has some distinctive sparkling specks that might be gold ( but are more likely to be pyrite or fool's gold). Claire develops a certain condition commonly found near goldmines and with some reluctance gets in the car when it is time to go.
We drive around the town seeing the old buildings, many damaged by the earthquake last year. We visit the Superpit shop where we watch an informative video about the Pit and the town before heading to the Mount Charlotte Lookout where we learn about the struggle to secure a reliable water supply and how in the past water was more valuable than gold. The pipeline was conceived by C Y O'Connor and was able to deliver 23000 kilolitres per day via 8 steam driven pumping stations and 566km of steel pipe and is recognized as a National Engineering Landmark. We head back to our caravan park to plan the next day.
Esperance to Kalgoorlie Monday 5th September
Esperance is very much a coastal holiday village and after having a look around the harbor, we continue our journey through WA's Golden Outback region.
We head through Norseman which is situated at the crossroads of Highway 1 across the Nullabor and 94 to the Southwrn Goldfields. Gold was discovered in 1894 by prospector Laurie Sinclair when his horse Norseman went lame & Laurie discovered that the piece of rock lodged in the horse's hoof was gold bearing. This resulted in a major find that sparked a gold rush and established a town that was named in honour of a horse.
It became evident that there are no roadside recycling bins on the road between Norseman & Kalgoorlie - Boulder by the over abundance of glass bottles littering the table drains. Not sure what the targets are but there are plenty of misses.
Once again we find ourselves short of inexpensive accommodation as the asking price is $60 for an unpowered tent site. With a declaration that we are not miners, thus should not have to pay miner's rates, we accept an overflow site at a different park at a third of the cost.
We head through Norseman which is situated at the crossroads of Highway 1 across the Nullabor and 94 to the Southwrn Goldfields. Gold was discovered in 1894 by prospector Laurie Sinclair when his horse Norseman went lame & Laurie discovered that the piece of rock lodged in the horse's hoof was gold bearing. This resulted in a major find that sparked a gold rush and established a town that was named in honour of a horse.
It became evident that there are no roadside recycling bins on the road between Norseman & Kalgoorlie - Boulder by the over abundance of glass bottles littering the table drains. Not sure what the targets are but there are plenty of misses.
Once again we find ourselves short of inexpensive accommodation as the asking price is $60 for an unpowered tent site. With a declaration that we are not miners, thus should not have to pay miner's rates, we accept an overflow site at a different park at a third of the cost.
Albany to Esperance - Happy Father's Day 04/09/11
Staying in a cabin overnight not only keeps us warm and dry but provides an opportunity for the kids to cook Dad breakfast for Father's Day.
Albany was selected asthe departure point for ANZAC troops due to it's important coal and port facilities. The first convoy sailed out of King George Sound bound for Gallipoli on 1st November 1914 and took 30 000 ANZAC troops, 7500 horses and supplies on a fleet 40 transport ships & 5 naval escort vehicles. Albany was the last sighting of Australia for those who fought and died at Gallipoli, in France or the Middle East. Thus Albany's place in history is recognised at many sites around the town.
On the foreshore is ANZAC Peace Park along with The Desert Mounted Corps memorial which features an Australian mounted soldier assisting a NZ soldier whose horse has been wounded. It is from this vantage point at Mt Clarence that we are supposed to have breathtaking island and ocean views however on this day, Albany is shrouded in mist and low cloud and thus poor visability.
We visit an impressive ship on the foreshore which is a full-scale relic of the Brig Amity which brought the first settlers and then convicts to Albany in 1826. We climbed aboard and went below decks not just because it was pouring rain but to follow the ship's journey from Sydney to Albany. It also filled the void in learning about these ships along the WA coast and give Angus and Claire first hand experience of the life of a sailor in 1826.
We head out of Albany and even though it would be incredible to take in the jagged peaks of the Stirling Ranges, we figure it will be unlikely to have good visibility considering the weather.
We travel ongside the Fitzgerald River NP and the pristine Fitzgerald Biosphere Reserve which are areas of terrestrial and coastal ecosystems endorsed by the United Nations. This reserve contains an undisturbed core enclosed by the Fitzgerald NP surrounded by a buffer of uncleared bush, protected coastline and marine environment.
Interesting concept since on the other side of the road is overused and cleared pastoral land.
Another "Pink Lake" in Esperance but only at a particular time of the year (not now). We stay in a cabin due to the weather again but are hoping to use the tents at our next stop as these cabins really bite into our budget.
Albany was selected asthe departure point for ANZAC troops due to it's important coal and port facilities. The first convoy sailed out of King George Sound bound for Gallipoli on 1st November 1914 and took 30 000 ANZAC troops, 7500 horses and supplies on a fleet 40 transport ships & 5 naval escort vehicles. Albany was the last sighting of Australia for those who fought and died at Gallipoli, in France or the Middle East. Thus Albany's place in history is recognised at many sites around the town.
On the foreshore is ANZAC Peace Park along with The Desert Mounted Corps memorial which features an Australian mounted soldier assisting a NZ soldier whose horse has been wounded. It is from this vantage point at Mt Clarence that we are supposed to have breathtaking island and ocean views however on this day, Albany is shrouded in mist and low cloud and thus poor visability.
We visit an impressive ship on the foreshore which is a full-scale relic of the Brig Amity which brought the first settlers and then convicts to Albany in 1826. We climbed aboard and went below decks not just because it was pouring rain but to follow the ship's journey from Sydney to Albany. It also filled the void in learning about these ships along the WA coast and give Angus and Claire first hand experience of the life of a sailor in 1826.
We head out of Albany and even though it would be incredible to take in the jagged peaks of the Stirling Ranges, we figure it will be unlikely to have good visibility considering the weather.
We travel ongside the Fitzgerald River NP and the pristine Fitzgerald Biosphere Reserve which are areas of terrestrial and coastal ecosystems endorsed by the United Nations. This reserve contains an undisturbed core enclosed by the Fitzgerald NP surrounded by a buffer of uncleared bush, protected coastline and marine environment.
Interesting concept since on the other side of the road is overused and cleared pastoral land.
Another "Pink Lake" in Esperance but only at a particular time of the year (not now). We stay in a cabin due to the weather again but are hoping to use the tents at our next stop as these cabins really bite into our budget.
Gloucester Tree to Albany Saturday 3rd September
Once again it is a cold, misty and dreary morning. regardless, we head out to Gloucester National Park which has several walks however it is the boy's intention to scale the Gloucester Tree. This tree along with 2 others - The Bicentennial Tree and the Diamond Tree were originally constructed in the 1930's & 1940's as fire lookouts in the top of Karri trees. These lookouts in the treetops were an ingenious way of spotting fires in such tall forest. The Gloucester Tree towers 61m above the forest and has a series of reo bars that spiral upward and act as footpegs. The boys make it up halfway before it starts pouring rain and very slippery and thus disappointingly but safely descend to the forest floor.
We continue on through these forests to the township of Walpole an this area is famous for it's Red Tingle trees (Eucalyptus Jacksonii). The Giant Tingle Tree is over 450 years old & measures 24min girth at it's base. We move on to visit Valley of the Giants and the Wilderness Discovery Centre. We take the Tree Top Walk which is a 600m walkway rising 40m above the forest floor and provides a breathtaking experience a birds eye view of the forest. With the rain and winds picking up, it almost provided a little extra along the way also.... A meandering boardwalk also takes us through a grove of veteran Tingle trees called the Ancient Empire. This walk lets us experience at close hand some of the unique shapes of some of the giant trees. We walk through the hollowed out base of one. Along this path, we encounter the story of these ancient trees. We pass more wildflowers, this time native slipper orchids and tassel flowers interspersed with native grasses, moss, lichen and fungi.
We taste more samples of fudge, condiments and honey at Denmark before travelling once more through sweeping pastoral vistas and ocean scenery and into Albany.
Tuesday, 27 September 2011
Cape Leeuwin to Pemberton Friday 2nd September 2011
We travel through the Township of Margaret River enjoying fudge, nougat, jams and conserves on our way to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. We take the scenic route via Skippy Rock with stunning ocean views of the coastline. The old Waterwheel was constructed in 1895 during the building of the lighthouse when a spring was tapped to provide fresh water for the workers. Originally built of timber, it has now turned to stone.
In 1895 construction of the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse began to make the passage safer for seafarers. Situated at the most south westerly tip in Australia, standing at the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. It is the tallest lighthouse on Australian mainland and we climbed the 176 steps to the viewing platform. It remains an important maritime and meteorological landmark and one of the few remaining operational lighthouse open to the public.
We travel on past Augusta along Brockman Highway to the last of the "UP" towns being Peerabeelup. As the rain continues, we now start to travel through completely different landscape and the start of the Karri Forests.
World famous for it's soaring Karri and Tingle Forests, the deep red timber of the jarrah and pristine wilderness areas, this is a beautiful region. Stunning rivers that form cascading waterfalls, glassy lakes and pools are also populated with trout, perch and maroon (a freshwater crayfish).
Accommodation tonight will have 4 solid walls and a roof rather than that of canvas.
In 1895 construction of the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse began to make the passage safer for seafarers. Situated at the most south westerly tip in Australia, standing at the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. It is the tallest lighthouse on Australian mainland and we climbed the 176 steps to the viewing platform. It remains an important maritime and meteorological landmark and one of the few remaining operational lighthouse open to the public.
We travel on past Augusta along Brockman Highway to the last of the "UP" towns being Peerabeelup. As the rain continues, we now start to travel through completely different landscape and the start of the Karri Forests.
World famous for it's soaring Karri and Tingle Forests, the deep red timber of the jarrah and pristine wilderness areas, this is a beautiful region. Stunning rivers that form cascading waterfalls, glassy lakes and pools are also populated with trout, perch and maroon (a freshwater crayfish).
Accommodation tonight will have 4 solid walls and a roof rather than that of canvas.
Cape Naturaliste whale watching - Thurs 1st day of Spring
We visit the Candy Cow in Cowaramup and then take a drive to the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and we take a walk around a couple of the trails. We take advantage of the stunning views in the National Park along with more wildflowers. It is here that is also a good vantage point for whale spotting. Between September & December, Southern Right, Humpback and Blue Whales are all commonly seen off the coast. We experience the magic of them basking, breaching and tail lobbing just 100-150m offshore. The park even provides a purpose build platform to enjoy the experience.
The weather turns squally and we cut our losses and give up on the idea of visiting any one of 5 caves in the area and head back to our abode.
The weather turns squally and we cut our losses and give up on the idea of visiting any one of 5 caves in the area and head back to our abode.
Margaret River Delights Wednesday 31st August 2011
We had grandiose ideas of exploring the area between the two coastal capes that begins at Cape Naturaliste and extends 138kms south to Cape Leeuwin. We instead find that a smorgasbord of gastronomic delights awaited us today. Some of these delectable delights include cheese & yoghurt from The Margaret River (MR) Dairy Company, MR Nuts & Cereals, Lavender Devonshire Tea along with more chocolate. We also sample olive oil, jams & condiments at Providore.
The afternoon was spent at Yallingup Maze where we not only find our way out but enjoy family time completing an assortment of games and puzzles spread out on numerous coffee tables. Some challenging and some just frustrating.
The day was finished off with home made ice-cream.
The afternoon was spent at Yallingup Maze where we not only find our way out but enjoy family time completing an assortment of games and puzzles spread out on numerous coffee tables. Some challenging and some just frustrating.
The day was finished off with home made ice-cream.
Woodman Point - Cowaramup Tuesday 30/8/11
Fremantle Cemetery is attracts visitors including us to the memorial gardens E3 Plot 33, the resting place of Ronald Scott (otherwise known as Bon Scott) who died alone in London.
We travel south, have lunch at Yarloop - an old railway village, sample cheeses from Harvey Cheese Factory and arrive at Busselton. We walk the 1.841km length of the 145 year old Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Our view out toward Dunsborough & Cape Naturaliste is not looking promising for dry weather. We were correct in our assumptions and arrive at Taunton Farm to a wet campsite.
We travel south, have lunch at Yarloop - an old railway village, sample cheeses from Harvey Cheese Factory and arrive at Busselton. We walk the 1.841km length of the 145 year old Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Our view out toward Dunsborough & Cape Naturaliste is not looking promising for dry weather. We were correct in our assumptions and arrive at Taunton Farm to a wet campsite.
The Fremantle Prison.
Today we set off to explore the Fremantle Prison. This ominous and imposing structure was built in the 1850's by convict labour and was in use up until 1991 when it was decommissioned. We elected to do two tours. The first was a general look at the prison and the conditions the prisoners had to endure while the second tour intrigued us with stories of escape attempts and tales of the various customers that this establishment catered for. Our first tour (Doing Time Tour) took use through the route and procedures that a new prisoner would experience. All was good until the tour guide picked Nick for a demonstration of the pre-entry search that new prisoners were subjected to. As the guide (??? ex prison guard 6'2 no nonsense ) slipped on a glove and told me to drop my dacks , my response of " not for anything less than $200" was a poor attempt to cover my nervousness. Note to self DO NOT BREAK THE LAW!!! We continue through the wash area where the prisoners had their first and last decent semi-private shower. After that they were lucky to get two showers per week in open shower blocks. Don't drop the soap! We then go through the kitchen where the food was cooked in huge cookers and then onto the exercise yard where the food was eaten, toilet buckets emptied and cleaned, and if you had no job this was where you spent the day. The shelter we stood under was only put there in the 80's as too the doors on the two toilets that served 200 crims. There was only one guard per exercise yard and he was safely locked into a small enclosure to keep him safe. ??? Who is the prisoner??? We then go into Main Block where the prisoners spent the night. We see the suicide netting that was installed after one prisoner took the quick way down from the 4th floor. We learnt how the guards wouldn't walk in the centre area as toilet buckets had a bad habit of being knocked over. We were shown the chapel where the prisoners were able to attend the weekly service. The main wall of the chapel is intricately decorated with the Lord's Prayer and the 10 Commandments. Interestingly as many of the guards were ex soldiers the commandment 'thou shalt not kill' has been reworded as ' thou shalt not do murder'. The prisoner who painted these decorative panels was illiterate and copied the words letter by letter over a period of many months. His sentence was then reduced by the same time it took for him to do this work. We see the progression of cells from their original state through the years to how they were when the prison was closed. We see some of the artwork in the cells. Until a couple of years prior to closure any marking of cell walls was strictly forbidden but due to the impending demolition of the prison this rule was relaxed for some of the inmates. The prison was then heritage listed so these artworks remain. The flogging post was our next stop before heading to the solitary confinement cells. Prisoners who were sentenced to solitary were held in these cells in total isolation for 23 hrs a day. They were let out individually for one hr in a separate exercise yard where their only human contact was with the guard that was assigned to supervise them. There were 12 cells and they were all alike except cell 12 which was closest to the entrance of the solitary block. This cell was for holding prisoners who were to be executed. We walked the short distance from this cell to the gallows where their sentence was carried out. Unlike the drawn out process that is portrayed in the movies, the time taken from leaving the cell to being hung was on average 90 seconds. It was very sobering to see a gallows that had been used to end the life of 43 men and one woman. The noose that was hanging from the heavy beam was not a prop. It was set up for the last man to be hung but not used as his sentence had been reduced to life imprisonment. We had lunch before going on our second tour, the Great Escapes tour. We were taken through different areas of the prison and shown were different escape attempts were made. We saw the entrance to the vast tunnel system that was dug out by the prisoners as part of a water supply system for Fremantle. We saw the cells of Bon Scott, Moondyne Joe, Brendan Abbot, and other previous customers of Freo prison. All in all we had an informative and eye opening experience that reinforces the desire to be a law abiding citizen.
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Our days in Fremantle 26-29/08/11
Our first day we visit the inner Fremantle where much of the colonial architecture remains and is virtually unchanged since the mid-19th Century. It has retained the charm of yesteryear & it is very evident when we visit the Fremantle Markets (established in 1867).
Day 2 begins at the Shipwreck Galleries which are housed in the restored convict built Commissariat building. It is recognised as the foremost maritime archeology museum in the Southern Hemisphere. This gave us amazing insight into the early shipbuilding, the wealth and influence of the East-India Trading company, the treasures and relics of the many ships wrecked along the treacherous Western Australian coast. We learned of the difficulties of exploration, retrieval and restoration of these wrecks and relics. Some of these include original timbers from the Dutch VOC ship the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. We had learned a little of these wrecks as we came down the WA coast but it was here that we consolidated this knowledge. We enjoyed fish & chips at Freo's Fishing Boat Harbour @ Joes Fish Shack.
Our walk continues passed the Round House, the oldest remaining public building in WA and was the Swan River Colony's first jail but with the arrival of convicts in 1850 became inadequate and Fremantle Prison was built.
We catch a glimpse of the Collins class sub which is moored in Port beside the E-Shed markets.
Day 3 takes us to the Western Australian Maritime Museum which exhibits significant historic objects & boats that highlight WA's sporting & adventure heritage including the winged keel of Australia II that won Australia's first America's Cup. The exhibitions tell the stories of human endeavour and courage. It is here that we take a tour of the fascinating decommissioned submarine HMAS Ovens. We had an informative tour aboard and learned of the demanding environment in which these sailors lived and worked in such close confines. We continue to explore the maritime museum and find that we are among the last people to leave before the doors are locked for the night. We head back to our camp and plan our next day of doing time at the infamous Freo Prison.
Day 2 begins at the Shipwreck Galleries which are housed in the restored convict built Commissariat building. It is recognised as the foremost maritime archeology museum in the Southern Hemisphere. This gave us amazing insight into the early shipbuilding, the wealth and influence of the East-India Trading company, the treasures and relics of the many ships wrecked along the treacherous Western Australian coast. We learned of the difficulties of exploration, retrieval and restoration of these wrecks and relics. Some of these include original timbers from the Dutch VOC ship the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. We had learned a little of these wrecks as we came down the WA coast but it was here that we consolidated this knowledge. We enjoyed fish & chips at Freo's Fishing Boat Harbour @ Joes Fish Shack.
Our walk continues passed the Round House, the oldest remaining public building in WA and was the Swan River Colony's first jail but with the arrival of convicts in 1850 became inadequate and Fremantle Prison was built.
We catch a glimpse of the Collins class sub which is moored in Port beside the E-Shed markets.
Day 3 takes us to the Western Australian Maritime Museum which exhibits significant historic objects & boats that highlight WA's sporting & adventure heritage including the winged keel of Australia II that won Australia's first America's Cup. The exhibitions tell the stories of human endeavour and courage. It is here that we take a tour of the fascinating decommissioned submarine HMAS Ovens. We had an informative tour aboard and learned of the demanding environment in which these sailors lived and worked in such close confines. We continue to explore the maritime museum and find that we are among the last people to leave before the doors are locked for the night. We head back to our camp and plan our next day of doing time at the infamous Freo Prison.
Perth 24-25th August 2011
Day 1
More rain overnight but has fined this morning. After a drive along the Swan River along Mounts Bay Road, we lunch in the WA University precinct before proceeding to King' Park & Botanical Gardens which is one of the largest inner city parks in the world. Our drive through the entrance is passed Eucalypt trees which honour the fallen from WW's.
A wildflower lovers paradise here with species from both the Northern & Souther regions of WA. Federation Walk takes us on a walkway above the treetops with interpretative Aboriginal history. The stroll takes us through various memorial gardens and onto the DNA Tower.
Day 2
Our first sight seeing venture today is the Perth Mint. An enthusiastic guide provides us the opportunity to experience the excitement of the early gold rushes showing us replica nuggets found in WA including the Golden Eagle & Hand of Faith nuggets. We watched a gold pour in the original Melting House & handled $500,000 worth of gold bullion. We discovered the value of our weight in gold before heading into the vault. As we exit, we note that there must have been a change in the value of bullion as people are lined up to exchange bullion for cash.
An accidental discovery of the FESA museum sees Angus in his element. It is here that we see a number of exhibits pertaining to fire, storms, earthquakes, cyclones and rescue. A very interesting place which is also used for school excursions.
A stroll down Hay St Mall takes us to London Court. Built in 1937, one is able to step back into time in the setting of Tudor England. Copper coloured ships decorate the classically moulded ceilings at both entrances; and containers moulded with lions & unicorns line the walkway. At one end is a blue faced clock which chimes every 1/4 hour. The clock face is a replica of one of the dials in the clock tower that houses Big Ben in London. At one end of the court are four knights circling in the window when the clock chimes & isknown as Tournament of Armoured Knights, and at the other entrance is a miniature of St George doing battle with the dragon.
To finish our day, we move on to visit one of the largest musical instruments in the world - a set of 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. These bells are housed in the 82.5m high Bell Tower. The Oldest Bell in Australia dates back to 1550. The day finished we head back to the caravan park.
More rain overnight but has fined this morning. After a drive along the Swan River along Mounts Bay Road, we lunch in the WA University precinct before proceeding to King' Park & Botanical Gardens which is one of the largest inner city parks in the world. Our drive through the entrance is passed Eucalypt trees which honour the fallen from WW's.
A wildflower lovers paradise here with species from both the Northern & Souther regions of WA. Federation Walk takes us on a walkway above the treetops with interpretative Aboriginal history. The stroll takes us through various memorial gardens and onto the DNA Tower.
Day 2
Our first sight seeing venture today is the Perth Mint. An enthusiastic guide provides us the opportunity to experience the excitement of the early gold rushes showing us replica nuggets found in WA including the Golden Eagle & Hand of Faith nuggets. We watched a gold pour in the original Melting House & handled $500,000 worth of gold bullion. We discovered the value of our weight in gold before heading into the vault. As we exit, we note that there must have been a change in the value of bullion as people are lined up to exchange bullion for cash.
An accidental discovery of the FESA museum sees Angus in his element. It is here that we see a number of exhibits pertaining to fire, storms, earthquakes, cyclones and rescue. A very interesting place which is also used for school excursions.
A stroll down Hay St Mall takes us to London Court. Built in 1937, one is able to step back into time in the setting of Tudor England. Copper coloured ships decorate the classically moulded ceilings at both entrances; and containers moulded with lions & unicorns line the walkway. At one end is a blue faced clock which chimes every 1/4 hour. The clock face is a replica of one of the dials in the clock tower that houses Big Ben in London. At one end of the court are four knights circling in the window when the clock chimes & isknown as Tournament of Armoured Knights, and at the other entrance is a miniature of St George doing battle with the dragon.
To finish our day, we move on to visit one of the largest musical instruments in the world - a set of 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. These bells are housed in the 82.5m high Bell Tower. The Oldest Bell in Australia dates back to 1550. The day finished we head back to the caravan park.
Tuesday 23rd August Cervantes to Swan Valley
With no idea where we are going to stay in Perth, the Garmin takes us through the Swan Valley to the Visitor Centre & our decision is made.
This region is 25 mins fom Perth & is WA's oldest & most visited wine growing region however we instead enjoy the nearby historical village of Guildford a beautiful place. It has a collection of antique shops, cafes and pristine examples of European settlement buildings dating back to the 1830's.
The area offers a food & wine trail however we instead make our way to the Margaret River Chocolate factory, Mondo nougat factory and buzz into a honey outlet & cafe which provided the kids with more info about bees and they were able to see them at work through a glass hive.
Not much dinner required tonight.
This region is 25 mins fom Perth & is WA's oldest & most visited wine growing region however we instead enjoy the nearby historical village of Guildford a beautiful place. It has a collection of antique shops, cafes and pristine examples of European settlement buildings dating back to the 1830's.
The area offers a food & wine trail however we instead make our way to the Margaret River Chocolate factory, Mondo nougat factory and buzz into a honey outlet & cafe which provided the kids with more info about bees and they were able to see them at work through a glass hive.
Not much dinner required tonight.
Geralton to Cervantes Monday 22/08/11
After a delicious Chinese takeaway for tea and a dry night inside our cabin, we woke to find our decision to get a cabin was truly justified as it was wet and miserable outside. After a leisurely breakfast we waited for a break in the weather to pack the car. That done we found our way to the HMAS Sydney II memorial where we had a guided tour. The memorial honors the 645 sailors who were lost when the HMAS Sydney II was sunk after a battle with the German raider HSK Kormoran who was disguised as a Dutch trading ship. The Kormoran was cleverly designed with drop down sides that concealed it's guns allowing it to launch a surprise attack on the Sydney II. Unfortunately for the Kormoran, the Sydney II gave as good as she got and both ships ultimately sunk. The fate and resting place of both ships was a mystery until the wreckage of the Kormoran was found on the 12th March 2008. The Sydney was found 4 days later and the mystery was solved. The memorial in Geraldton is steeped in symbolism with a dome consisting of 645 seagulls representing the Australian sailors lost at sea. An inverted ship's propeller indicates a lost ship. The wall to the south shows photographs of the ship and has the names of all who were lost. A beautiful bronze statue of a woman gazing out to sea waiting for her loved one who will not be coming home. The Australian flag flys from the life-size representation of the bow of HMAS Sydney. The memorial was a solemn reminder of the ultimate sacrifice made by those who served on the HMAS Sydney II. After a period of time here we moved on.
Our next stop was the St Francis Xavier Cathedral which was designed by the famed architect Monsignor Hawes. The foundation stone was laid in 1916 and the building was completed in 1938. We spent a while examining the beautiful stained glass windows before continuing our journey. We leave Geraldton and head down the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes where we visit the Pinnacles Desert. The Pinnacles are amazing limestone structures that are remnants of ancient shells. Time, wind and rain have removed material from around these upright columns resulting in their strange appearance. Dutch sailors in the mid 1650's thought they were the ruins of an ancient civilization. We went through the visitors center where we learned about the desert and it's inhabitants before going on the walk that weaves through these fantastic structures. Angus had fun playing leapfrog over some of the smaller peaks while the rest of us played hide and seek. We then headed into Cervantes where we stayed the night.
Our next stop was the St Francis Xavier Cathedral which was designed by the famed architect Monsignor Hawes. The foundation stone was laid in 1916 and the building was completed in 1938. We spent a while examining the beautiful stained glass windows before continuing our journey. We leave Geraldton and head down the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes where we visit the Pinnacles Desert. The Pinnacles are amazing limestone structures that are remnants of ancient shells. Time, wind and rain have removed material from around these upright columns resulting in their strange appearance. Dutch sailors in the mid 1650's thought they were the ruins of an ancient civilization. We went through the visitors center where we learned about the desert and it's inhabitants before going on the walk that weaves through these fantastic structures. Angus had fun playing leapfrog over some of the smaller peaks while the rest of us played hide and seek. We then headed into Cervantes where we stayed the night.
Monday, 12 September 2011
Kalbarri NP & Coastal drive Sunday 21st August
Situated at the mouth of the Murchison River, Kalbarri also offers a NP for visitors to marvel at the carved landscape of river gorges and sea cliffs as well as the floral beauty of river redgums and wildflowers including the "Kalbarri Cat's paw".
We visit Nature's Window which is a natural rock arch that frames the upstream Murchison River as well as other lookouts and walks in Kalbarri NP including Z bend which contains the fossil tracks of a scorpion like creature called a eurypterid that grew up to 2m in length.
We then follow the coastal route which features magnificent, towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below. The 430 million year old sandstone & limestone coastline slowly yields to the force of the Indian Ocean which have sculptured some rather precarious rock formations including Island Rock & Natural Bridge.
Continuing south we dicover Hutt Lagoon, known as the Pink Lake, a betacarotene mine used as dietary supplements.
Our journey continues as the road winds through rolling hills and picturesque pastoral grazing land. Historic townships such as Northhampton where history abounds through buildings, convict ruins and a Governor's mansion are very different from the hardy, tough NP flora that we have seen to date.
Heavy rain and equally conditions on our way into Geralton finds us in the safety of a cabin for the night.
We visit Nature's Window which is a natural rock arch that frames the upstream Murchison River as well as other lookouts and walks in Kalbarri NP including Z bend which contains the fossil tracks of a scorpion like creature called a eurypterid that grew up to 2m in length.
We then follow the coastal route which features magnificent, towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below. The 430 million year old sandstone & limestone coastline slowly yields to the force of the Indian Ocean which have sculptured some rather precarious rock formations including Island Rock & Natural Bridge.
Continuing south we dicover Hutt Lagoon, known as the Pink Lake, a betacarotene mine used as dietary supplements.
Our journey continues as the road winds through rolling hills and picturesque pastoral grazing land. Historic townships such as Northhampton where history abounds through buildings, convict ruins and a Governor's mansion are very different from the hardy, tough NP flora that we have seen to date.
Heavy rain and equally conditions on our way into Geralton finds us in the safety of a cabin for the night.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)