Wilpena Pound Resort 15-16/09/11

Day 1
We tag-along on a 4WD tour on a private sheep property - Arkaba, which is parallel to Wilpena. What an awesome experience led by a chap Terry who understands the hardships of being a grazier. He and his wife have made the "tree-change" from a sheep property on the Eyre Peninsula to enjoy this land. We are glad we have the 2 way radios as Terry gives us a running commentary on the history of the area and points out interesting geographical and environmental features as we go along. He keeps us entertained with stories relevant to the surroundings and we have a brilliant time. The Pajero has a good low range workout as we traverse mountain ranges affording magnificent viewa of not only Wilpena but the Elder Ranges. We are happy that we are driving this track, not walking it. The track finishes along a ridge of steep hills named "Stairway to Heaven" with views of Hawker in the far distance.
The afternoon is spent exploring with a walk to Hill Homestead. We follow Wilpena Creek through towering River Redgums, native pines, center acacias and a various array of wildflowers. We scramble up to Wangara Lookout past numerous skinks and lizards on the rocks. We rest for a panoramic view of Wilpena trying to envisage the coiled giant snakes that make up the Pound according to the traditional owners.
Day 2 
We visit the old Wilpena Station. Nestled between the ABC Range and the northern ramparts of Wilpena Pound, this station is one of South Australia's oldest and best preserved pastoral settlements. We stepped back in time by 150 years to the early days of pastoral runs. We explored a world of improvisation, dogged with self sufficiency and a powerful instinct for survival. The buildings included the blacksmith shop, corner-post and stockyards, stables and harness room, cemetery, store and the homestead. 
Onward bound to Stokes Hill Lookout and it is here that it becomes truly apparent of how over-grazing
by sheep and other introduced animal species have contributed to the erosion and barren-ness of this area. Rabbits and feral goats now add to the destruction of this land.
We head for Brachina Gorge in a hope of spotting the rare yellow footed rock wallaby.
Brachina Gorge road passes through a series of tilted rock formations bearing fossils from the dawn of animal life. Interpretive signs describe events up to 650 million years ago and is like a corridor in time.
Dusk is apparently the best time to spot the wallabies and we are also mindful of the 55kms to get back home in the dark with all of the other kangaroos, wallabies and emus on the road.
We find an area to safely pull over in the gorge which is composed of Bonney Sandstone which is predominantly a thick series of red sandstone and is 560 million years old. A male emu and his 7 chicks are not perturbed by our presence and continue to graze on "Salvation Jane" and other grasses beside the creek. Nick is first to spot the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby as it suddenly appeared on a dead tree over the water. They are rather timid creatures and are easily startled however the first wallaby is joined by anther just up the creek bank. We the watched as this colourful wallaby leapt with surprising ease up the steep craggy rock face. With special non-slip pads on the bottom of it's feet, it performs gravity defying feats, extending it's arms forward to balance it's fast precarious landings. These creatures were once more widespread however they were hunted by colonists as pets until almost extinct. They became a protected species in 1912 however their survival has again been threatened recently by large numbers of feral goats and rabbits. Forced out of their safe, rocky habitat in search of food and water in more open areas has made them easy prey for foxes and wedge-tailed eagles. It is here in Brachina Gorge that a massive restoration project by the SA g'ment has restored this creatures fragile habitat.
As we head back through the gorge on our way back to camp, we are rewarded with more sightings of yellow footed rock wallabies.

Port Augusta to Wilpena Pound 14/09/11

Our morning is taken up spent in the Wadlata Outback Centre. Wadlata is a discovery centre that provided information about the incredible diversity and history of how the Flinders Ranges and the Outback evolved. Some of the interpretive stations included geological formations of the region; early explorers Eyre, Sturt, Stuart and Giles. We sat in an early picture theatre, an old Ghan railway carriage, peddled a Traeger pedal radio at the replica RFDS base to be taught via "School of the Air". We watched the story of Tom Kruse and the famous outback Marree to Birdsville mail run through the back of beyond, an amazing man. Once again, BHP Billiton provided insight into coal, gas and oilfields inthe areas we are about to travel.
With our brains well saturated, we move on through Quorn which is the home to the Pichi Richi Railway, a treasured steam journey which chugs it's way through glorious rugged countryside of the Pichi Richi Pass to Port Augusta. Dedicated volunteers breathed life into the abandoned railway in 1973, almost 20 years after the line closed. Alas, it only runs on Sundays. Quorn retains much of it's old world character with wide streetscapes and charming heritage buildings including the iconic Flour Mill building.
Also once a thriving railway town, Hawker not only has 1880 charm but the information centre has a seismograph that monitors regular activity.
Enroute to Wilpena Pound resort, we encounter numerous old homestead remains, a stark reminder that in the end - the land rules!
According to science, the geological forces which caused the formation of the Flinders Ranges warped and wrinkled the Earth 's crust in this area. Wilpena Pound is those wrinkles left after thousands of years of weathering. It is a natural basin, called a "Pound" because it looks like an animal enclosure. According to the Adnyamathanha story, two giant snakes ate up all of the people at a special corroboree and then coiled together to form Wilpena Pound.
We also realise that driving at night would not be a good choice as we encounter a considerable number of emus and kangaroos well before dusk.

Ceduna to Port Augusta 13th September 2011

We find ourselves once again in lush pastoral land and as we pass through the Windunna District, we discover a Farmers Memorial dedicated by numerous families and associations in the area.
We have lunch at Kimba and pass by the "Big Galah". A sign at the bakery proclaims that Kimba is halfway across Australia.
Port Augusta is where the Outback meets the Ocean & is called "The Crossroads of Australia" because roads from Sydney to Perth and Adelaide to Darwin pass through port Augusta. 
Established in 1852, it was one of South Australia's major ports for wool, minerals and wheat with regular shipping until 1973.
This progressive town at the northern end of the Spencer Gulf is nestled on the calm gulf waters and is used as a base for exploring the Flinders Ranges, the Outback and the Eyre Peninsula. This is the reason for us being here also and intend heading north east tomorrow.