We travel through the Township of Margaret River enjoying fudge, nougat, jams and conserves on our way to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. We take the scenic route via Skippy Rock with stunning ocean views of the coastline. The old Waterwheel was constructed in 1895 during the building of the lighthouse when a spring was tapped to provide fresh water for the workers. Originally built of timber, it has now turned to stone.
In 1895 construction of the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse began to make the passage safer for seafarers. Situated at the most south westerly tip in Australia, standing at the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. It is the tallest lighthouse on Australian mainland and we climbed the 176 steps to the viewing platform. It remains an important maritime and meteorological landmark and one of the few remaining operational lighthouse open to the public.
We travel on past Augusta along Brockman Highway to the last of the "UP" towns being Peerabeelup. As the rain continues, we now start to travel through completely different landscape and the start of the Karri Forests.
World famous for it's soaring Karri and Tingle Forests, the deep red timber of the jarrah and pristine wilderness areas, this is a beautiful region. Stunning rivers that form cascading waterfalls, glassy lakes and pools are also populated with trout, perch and maroon (a freshwater crayfish).
Accommodation tonight will have 4 solid walls and a roof rather than that of canvas.
Tuesday, 27 September 2011
Cape Naturaliste whale watching - Thurs 1st day of Spring
We visit the Candy Cow in Cowaramup and then take a drive to the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and we take a walk around a couple of the trails. We take advantage of the stunning views in the National Park along with more wildflowers. It is here that is also a good vantage point for whale spotting. Between September & December, Southern Right, Humpback and Blue Whales are all commonly seen off the coast. We experience the magic of them basking, breaching and tail lobbing just 100-150m offshore. The park even provides a purpose build platform to enjoy the experience.
The weather turns squally and we cut our losses and give up on the idea of visiting any one of 5 caves in the area and head back to our abode.
The weather turns squally and we cut our losses and give up on the idea of visiting any one of 5 caves in the area and head back to our abode.
Margaret River Delights Wednesday 31st August 2011
We had grandiose ideas of exploring the area between the two coastal capes that begins at Cape Naturaliste and extends 138kms south to Cape Leeuwin. We instead find that a smorgasbord of gastronomic delights awaited us today. Some of these delectable delights include cheese & yoghurt from The Margaret River (MR) Dairy Company, MR Nuts & Cereals, Lavender Devonshire Tea along with more chocolate. We also sample olive oil, jams & condiments at Providore.
The afternoon was spent at Yallingup Maze where we not only find our way out but enjoy family time completing an assortment of games and puzzles spread out on numerous coffee tables. Some challenging and some just frustrating.
The day was finished off with home made ice-cream.
The afternoon was spent at Yallingup Maze where we not only find our way out but enjoy family time completing an assortment of games and puzzles spread out on numerous coffee tables. Some challenging and some just frustrating.
The day was finished off with home made ice-cream.
Woodman Point - Cowaramup Tuesday 30/8/11
Fremantle Cemetery is attracts visitors including us to the memorial gardens E3 Plot 33, the resting place of Ronald Scott (otherwise known as Bon Scott) who died alone in London.
We travel south, have lunch at Yarloop - an old railway village, sample cheeses from Harvey Cheese Factory and arrive at Busselton. We walk the 1.841km length of the 145 year old Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Our view out toward Dunsborough & Cape Naturaliste is not looking promising for dry weather. We were correct in our assumptions and arrive at Taunton Farm to a wet campsite.
We travel south, have lunch at Yarloop - an old railway village, sample cheeses from Harvey Cheese Factory and arrive at Busselton. We walk the 1.841km length of the 145 year old Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Our view out toward Dunsborough & Cape Naturaliste is not looking promising for dry weather. We were correct in our assumptions and arrive at Taunton Farm to a wet campsite.
The Fremantle Prison.
Today we set off to explore the Fremantle Prison. This ominous and imposing structure was built in the 1850's by convict labour and was in use up until 1991 when it was decommissioned. We elected to do two tours. The first was a general look at the prison and the conditions the prisoners had to endure while the second tour intrigued us with stories of escape attempts and tales of the various customers that this establishment catered for. Our first tour (Doing Time Tour) took use through the route and procedures that a new prisoner would experience. All was good until the tour guide picked Nick for a demonstration of the pre-entry search that new prisoners were subjected to. As the guide (??? ex prison guard 6'2 no nonsense ) slipped on a glove and told me to drop my dacks , my response of " not for anything less than $200" was a poor attempt to cover my nervousness. Note to self DO NOT BREAK THE LAW!!! We continue through the wash area where the prisoners had their first and last decent semi-private shower. After that they were lucky to get two showers per week in open shower blocks. Don't drop the soap! We then go through the kitchen where the food was cooked in huge cookers and then onto the exercise yard where the food was eaten, toilet buckets emptied and cleaned, and if you had no job this was where you spent the day. The shelter we stood under was only put there in the 80's as too the doors on the two toilets that served 200 crims. There was only one guard per exercise yard and he was safely locked into a small enclosure to keep him safe. ??? Who is the prisoner??? We then go into Main Block where the prisoners spent the night. We see the suicide netting that was installed after one prisoner took the quick way down from the 4th floor. We learnt how the guards wouldn't walk in the centre area as toilet buckets had a bad habit of being knocked over. We were shown the chapel where the prisoners were able to attend the weekly service. The main wall of the chapel is intricately decorated with the Lord's Prayer and the 10 Commandments. Interestingly as many of the guards were ex soldiers the commandment 'thou shalt not kill' has been reworded as ' thou shalt not do murder'. The prisoner who painted these decorative panels was illiterate and copied the words letter by letter over a period of many months. His sentence was then reduced by the same time it took for him to do this work. We see the progression of cells from their original state through the years to how they were when the prison was closed. We see some of the artwork in the cells. Until a couple of years prior to closure any marking of cell walls was strictly forbidden but due to the impending demolition of the prison this rule was relaxed for some of the inmates. The prison was then heritage listed so these artworks remain. The flogging post was our next stop before heading to the solitary confinement cells. Prisoners who were sentenced to solitary were held in these cells in total isolation for 23 hrs a day. They were let out individually for one hr in a separate exercise yard where their only human contact was with the guard that was assigned to supervise them. There were 12 cells and they were all alike except cell 12 which was closest to the entrance of the solitary block. This cell was for holding prisoners who were to be executed. We walked the short distance from this cell to the gallows where their sentence was carried out. Unlike the drawn out process that is portrayed in the movies, the time taken from leaving the cell to being hung was on average 90 seconds. It was very sobering to see a gallows that had been used to end the life of 43 men and one woman. The noose that was hanging from the heavy beam was not a prop. It was set up for the last man to be hung but not used as his sentence had been reduced to life imprisonment. We had lunch before going on our second tour, the Great Escapes tour. We were taken through different areas of the prison and shown were different escape attempts were made. We saw the entrance to the vast tunnel system that was dug out by the prisoners as part of a water supply system for Fremantle. We saw the cells of Bon Scott, Moondyne Joe, Brendan Abbot, and other previous customers of Freo prison. All in all we had an informative and eye opening experience that reinforces the desire to be a law abiding citizen.
Thursday, 22 September 2011
Our days in Fremantle 26-29/08/11
Our first day we visit the inner Fremantle where much of the colonial architecture remains and is virtually unchanged since the mid-19th Century. It has retained the charm of yesteryear & it is very evident when we visit the Fremantle Markets (established in 1867).
Day 2 begins at the Shipwreck Galleries which are housed in the restored convict built Commissariat building. It is recognised as the foremost maritime archeology museum in the Southern Hemisphere. This gave us amazing insight into the early shipbuilding, the wealth and influence of the East-India Trading company, the treasures and relics of the many ships wrecked along the treacherous Western Australian coast. We learned of the difficulties of exploration, retrieval and restoration of these wrecks and relics. Some of these include original timbers from the Dutch VOC ship the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. We had learned a little of these wrecks as we came down the WA coast but it was here that we consolidated this knowledge. We enjoyed fish & chips at Freo's Fishing Boat Harbour @ Joes Fish Shack.
Our walk continues passed the Round House, the oldest remaining public building in WA and was the Swan River Colony's first jail but with the arrival of convicts in 1850 became inadequate and Fremantle Prison was built.
We catch a glimpse of the Collins class sub which is moored in Port beside the E-Shed markets.
Day 3 takes us to the Western Australian Maritime Museum which exhibits significant historic objects & boats that highlight WA's sporting & adventure heritage including the winged keel of Australia II that won Australia's first America's Cup. The exhibitions tell the stories of human endeavour and courage. It is here that we take a tour of the fascinating decommissioned submarine HMAS Ovens. We had an informative tour aboard and learned of the demanding environment in which these sailors lived and worked in such close confines. We continue to explore the maritime museum and find that we are among the last people to leave before the doors are locked for the night. We head back to our camp and plan our next day of doing time at the infamous Freo Prison.
Day 2 begins at the Shipwreck Galleries which are housed in the restored convict built Commissariat building. It is recognised as the foremost maritime archeology museum in the Southern Hemisphere. This gave us amazing insight into the early shipbuilding, the wealth and influence of the East-India Trading company, the treasures and relics of the many ships wrecked along the treacherous Western Australian coast. We learned of the difficulties of exploration, retrieval and restoration of these wrecks and relics. Some of these include original timbers from the Dutch VOC ship the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. We had learned a little of these wrecks as we came down the WA coast but it was here that we consolidated this knowledge. We enjoyed fish & chips at Freo's Fishing Boat Harbour @ Joes Fish Shack.
Our walk continues passed the Round House, the oldest remaining public building in WA and was the Swan River Colony's first jail but with the arrival of convicts in 1850 became inadequate and Fremantle Prison was built.
We catch a glimpse of the Collins class sub which is moored in Port beside the E-Shed markets.
Day 3 takes us to the Western Australian Maritime Museum which exhibits significant historic objects & boats that highlight WA's sporting & adventure heritage including the winged keel of Australia II that won Australia's first America's Cup. The exhibitions tell the stories of human endeavour and courage. It is here that we take a tour of the fascinating decommissioned submarine HMAS Ovens. We had an informative tour aboard and learned of the demanding environment in which these sailors lived and worked in such close confines. We continue to explore the maritime museum and find that we are among the last people to leave before the doors are locked for the night. We head back to our camp and plan our next day of doing time at the infamous Freo Prison.
Perth 24-25th August 2011
Day 1
More rain overnight but has fined this morning. After a drive along the Swan River along Mounts Bay Road, we lunch in the WA University precinct before proceeding to King' Park & Botanical Gardens which is one of the largest inner city parks in the world. Our drive through the entrance is passed Eucalypt trees which honour the fallen from WW's.
A wildflower lovers paradise here with species from both the Northern & Souther regions of WA. Federation Walk takes us on a walkway above the treetops with interpretative Aboriginal history. The stroll takes us through various memorial gardens and onto the DNA Tower.
Day 2
Our first sight seeing venture today is the Perth Mint. An enthusiastic guide provides us the opportunity to experience the excitement of the early gold rushes showing us replica nuggets found in WA including the Golden Eagle & Hand of Faith nuggets. We watched a gold pour in the original Melting House & handled $500,000 worth of gold bullion. We discovered the value of our weight in gold before heading into the vault. As we exit, we note that there must have been a change in the value of bullion as people are lined up to exchange bullion for cash.
An accidental discovery of the FESA museum sees Angus in his element. It is here that we see a number of exhibits pertaining to fire, storms, earthquakes, cyclones and rescue. A very interesting place which is also used for school excursions.
A stroll down Hay St Mall takes us to London Court. Built in 1937, one is able to step back into time in the setting of Tudor England. Copper coloured ships decorate the classically moulded ceilings at both entrances; and containers moulded with lions & unicorns line the walkway. At one end is a blue faced clock which chimes every 1/4 hour. The clock face is a replica of one of the dials in the clock tower that houses Big Ben in London. At one end of the court are four knights circling in the window when the clock chimes & isknown as Tournament of Armoured Knights, and at the other entrance is a miniature of St George doing battle with the dragon.
To finish our day, we move on to visit one of the largest musical instruments in the world - a set of 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. These bells are housed in the 82.5m high Bell Tower. The Oldest Bell in Australia dates back to 1550. The day finished we head back to the caravan park.
More rain overnight but has fined this morning. After a drive along the Swan River along Mounts Bay Road, we lunch in the WA University precinct before proceeding to King' Park & Botanical Gardens which is one of the largest inner city parks in the world. Our drive through the entrance is passed Eucalypt trees which honour the fallen from WW's.
A wildflower lovers paradise here with species from both the Northern & Souther regions of WA. Federation Walk takes us on a walkway above the treetops with interpretative Aboriginal history. The stroll takes us through various memorial gardens and onto the DNA Tower.
Day 2
Our first sight seeing venture today is the Perth Mint. An enthusiastic guide provides us the opportunity to experience the excitement of the early gold rushes showing us replica nuggets found in WA including the Golden Eagle & Hand of Faith nuggets. We watched a gold pour in the original Melting House & handled $500,000 worth of gold bullion. We discovered the value of our weight in gold before heading into the vault. As we exit, we note that there must have been a change in the value of bullion as people are lined up to exchange bullion for cash.
An accidental discovery of the FESA museum sees Angus in his element. It is here that we see a number of exhibits pertaining to fire, storms, earthquakes, cyclones and rescue. A very interesting place which is also used for school excursions.
A stroll down Hay St Mall takes us to London Court. Built in 1937, one is able to step back into time in the setting of Tudor England. Copper coloured ships decorate the classically moulded ceilings at both entrances; and containers moulded with lions & unicorns line the walkway. At one end is a blue faced clock which chimes every 1/4 hour. The clock face is a replica of one of the dials in the clock tower that houses Big Ben in London. At one end of the court are four knights circling in the window when the clock chimes & isknown as Tournament of Armoured Knights, and at the other entrance is a miniature of St George doing battle with the dragon.
To finish our day, we move on to visit one of the largest musical instruments in the world - a set of 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. These bells are housed in the 82.5m high Bell Tower. The Oldest Bell in Australia dates back to 1550. The day finished we head back to the caravan park.
Tuesday 23rd August Cervantes to Swan Valley
With no idea where we are going to stay in Perth, the Garmin takes us through the Swan Valley to the Visitor Centre & our decision is made.
This region is 25 mins fom Perth & is WA's oldest & most visited wine growing region however we instead enjoy the nearby historical village of Guildford a beautiful place. It has a collection of antique shops, cafes and pristine examples of European settlement buildings dating back to the 1830's.
The area offers a food & wine trail however we instead make our way to the Margaret River Chocolate factory, Mondo nougat factory and buzz into a honey outlet & cafe which provided the kids with more info about bees and they were able to see them at work through a glass hive.
Not much dinner required tonight.
This region is 25 mins fom Perth & is WA's oldest & most visited wine growing region however we instead enjoy the nearby historical village of Guildford a beautiful place. It has a collection of antique shops, cafes and pristine examples of European settlement buildings dating back to the 1830's.
The area offers a food & wine trail however we instead make our way to the Margaret River Chocolate factory, Mondo nougat factory and buzz into a honey outlet & cafe which provided the kids with more info about bees and they were able to see them at work through a glass hive.
Not much dinner required tonight.
Geralton to Cervantes Monday 22/08/11
After a delicious Chinese takeaway for tea and a dry night inside our cabin, we woke to find our decision to get a cabin was truly justified as it was wet and miserable outside. After a leisurely breakfast we waited for a break in the weather to pack the car. That done we found our way to the HMAS Sydney II memorial where we had a guided tour. The memorial honors the 645 sailors who were lost when the HMAS Sydney II was sunk after a battle with the German raider HSK Kormoran who was disguised as a Dutch trading ship. The Kormoran was cleverly designed with drop down sides that concealed it's guns allowing it to launch a surprise attack on the Sydney II. Unfortunately for the Kormoran, the Sydney II gave as good as she got and both ships ultimately sunk. The fate and resting place of both ships was a mystery until the wreckage of the Kormoran was found on the 12th March 2008. The Sydney was found 4 days later and the mystery was solved. The memorial in Geraldton is steeped in symbolism with a dome consisting of 645 seagulls representing the Australian sailors lost at sea. An inverted ship's propeller indicates a lost ship. The wall to the south shows photographs of the ship and has the names of all who were lost. A beautiful bronze statue of a woman gazing out to sea waiting for her loved one who will not be coming home. The Australian flag flys from the life-size representation of the bow of HMAS Sydney. The memorial was a solemn reminder of the ultimate sacrifice made by those who served on the HMAS Sydney II. After a period of time here we moved on.
Our next stop was the St Francis Xavier Cathedral which was designed by the famed architect Monsignor Hawes. The foundation stone was laid in 1916 and the building was completed in 1938. We spent a while examining the beautiful stained glass windows before continuing our journey. We leave Geraldton and head down the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes where we visit the Pinnacles Desert. The Pinnacles are amazing limestone structures that are remnants of ancient shells. Time, wind and rain have removed material from around these upright columns resulting in their strange appearance. Dutch sailors in the mid 1650's thought they were the ruins of an ancient civilization. We went through the visitors center where we learned about the desert and it's inhabitants before going on the walk that weaves through these fantastic structures. Angus had fun playing leapfrog over some of the smaller peaks while the rest of us played hide and seek. We then headed into Cervantes where we stayed the night.
Our next stop was the St Francis Xavier Cathedral which was designed by the famed architect Monsignor Hawes. The foundation stone was laid in 1916 and the building was completed in 1938. We spent a while examining the beautiful stained glass windows before continuing our journey. We leave Geraldton and head down the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes where we visit the Pinnacles Desert. The Pinnacles are amazing limestone structures that are remnants of ancient shells. Time, wind and rain have removed material from around these upright columns resulting in their strange appearance. Dutch sailors in the mid 1650's thought they were the ruins of an ancient civilization. We went through the visitors center where we learned about the desert and it's inhabitants before going on the walk that weaves through these fantastic structures. Angus had fun playing leapfrog over some of the smaller peaks while the rest of us played hide and seek. We then headed into Cervantes where we stayed the night.
Monday, 12 September 2011
Kalbarri NP & Coastal drive Sunday 21st August
Situated at the mouth of the Murchison River, Kalbarri also offers a NP for visitors to marvel at the carved landscape of river gorges and sea cliffs as well as the floral beauty of river redgums and wildflowers including the "Kalbarri Cat's paw".
We visit Nature's Window which is a natural rock arch that frames the upstream Murchison River as well as other lookouts and walks in Kalbarri NP including Z bend which contains the fossil tracks of a scorpion like creature called a eurypterid that grew up to 2m in length.
We then follow the coastal route which features magnificent, towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below. The 430 million year old sandstone & limestone coastline slowly yields to the force of the Indian Ocean which have sculptured some rather precarious rock formations including Island Rock & Natural Bridge.
Continuing south we dicover Hutt Lagoon, known as the Pink Lake, a betacarotene mine used as dietary supplements.
Our journey continues as the road winds through rolling hills and picturesque pastoral grazing land. Historic townships such as Northhampton where history abounds through buildings, convict ruins and a Governor's mansion are very different from the hardy, tough NP flora that we have seen to date.
Heavy rain and equally conditions on our way into Geralton finds us in the safety of a cabin for the night.
We visit Nature's Window which is a natural rock arch that frames the upstream Murchison River as well as other lookouts and walks in Kalbarri NP including Z bend which contains the fossil tracks of a scorpion like creature called a eurypterid that grew up to 2m in length.
We then follow the coastal route which features magnificent, towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below. The 430 million year old sandstone & limestone coastline slowly yields to the force of the Indian Ocean which have sculptured some rather precarious rock formations including Island Rock & Natural Bridge.
Continuing south we dicover Hutt Lagoon, known as the Pink Lake, a betacarotene mine used as dietary supplements.
Our journey continues as the road winds through rolling hills and picturesque pastoral grazing land. Historic townships such as Northhampton where history abounds through buildings, convict ruins and a Governor's mansion are very different from the hardy, tough NP flora that we have seen to date.
Heavy rain and equally conditions on our way into Geralton finds us in the safety of a cabin for the night.
Kalbarri Saturday 20/08/11
We need a break from camping in NP & with caravanners & elect to stay on a horse stud much to the kid's delight. They both enjoyed their ride as it is Angus' first unled ride and besides these kids usually have 4 wheels under them in the form of a quad bike not 4 legs.
We enjoy the homeliness and friendliness of the hosts & other guests (all of whom were from Perth).
We enjoy the homeliness and friendliness of the hosts & other guests (all of whom were from Perth).
Cape Peron day 2 Friday 19/08/11
We woke to the sound of waves breaking on the beach. Actually we hardly slept because of the waves breaking on the beach. At least when you are camped beside the road you have a break between trucks. After brekkie we packed up camp and headed further up the sandy track to the tip of Cape Peron and onto Skipjack Point. From the height of the cliffs we were able to see rays and fish swimming in the beautiful clear water. We remembered the binoculars this time and were rewarded when a dugong showed up for a quick smackeral of sea grass. After spending some time gazing at this amazing vista we made our way back down the track slipping and sliding through the deep sand and shaking through the corrugations. We stopped at the homestead and visited the hot spring.
We will leave Monkey Mia for another time.
Shell Beach in this area is unique as it is only 1 of 2 in the world made up of millions of tiny cockle shells which have adapted to live in the high salinity water. These shells are up to 10m deep and stretch across 120km and are harvested for use as bird & animal Ca++ supplements.
As we departed the area, we wound down our windows at the quarantine grid to hear recordings of barking dogs. These recordings are used in an attempt to deter feral cats from entering the Peron Peninsula and are triggered when you cross the grid. The kids laughed for ages.
We camp along the track at Nerren Nerren.
We will leave Monkey Mia for another time.
Shell Beach in this area is unique as it is only 1 of 2 in the world made up of millions of tiny cockle shells which have adapted to live in the high salinity water. These shells are up to 10m deep and stretch across 120km and are harvested for use as bird & animal Ca++ supplements.
As we departed the area, we wound down our windows at the quarantine grid to hear recordings of barking dogs. These recordings are used in an attempt to deter feral cats from entering the Peron Peninsula and are triggered when you cross the grid. The kids laughed for ages.
We camp along the track at Nerren Nerren.
Denham - Francois Peron National Park 18/08/11
We head into the Heritage listed area known by most to be Shark Bay Marine Park.
First stop is the Hamelin Pool Stromatalites & Telegraph Station which is home to the oldest living organisms on the planet. Stromatalites are approx. 3.5 million years old; look like rocks but are composed of bacteria & algae and are extremely slow growing with a max. of 3mm/year. We also pass a shell quarry where early settlers cut shell bricks to make buildings here and at Denham.
After a lunch stop on the foreshore we head for Francois Peron National Park which lies within the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. The Peron Homestead precinct provides an insight into life on a working sheep station where a small interpretive centre depicts stories of Indigenous inhabitants, early European colonisation & current conservation programs.
The entry to this NP quickly reminds you of what the road conditions will be with a self serve tyre pressure station for those not already equipped.
The challenging sandy track and clay birridas takes us to Gregories camp site and it is here that we have spectacular views where striking red dunes give way to brilliant white beaches and crystal blue waters. We try our luck at fishing whilst Claire sketches her wildflowers.
Once again we miss our "Stairway to the Moon" but were rewarded instead with a "Stairway to the Sun".
First stop is the Hamelin Pool Stromatalites & Telegraph Station which is home to the oldest living organisms on the planet. Stromatalites are approx. 3.5 million years old; look like rocks but are composed of bacteria & algae and are extremely slow growing with a max. of 3mm/year. We also pass a shell quarry where early settlers cut shell bricks to make buildings here and at Denham.
After a lunch stop on the foreshore we head for Francois Peron National Park which lies within the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. The Peron Homestead precinct provides an insight into life on a working sheep station where a small interpretive centre depicts stories of Indigenous inhabitants, early European colonisation & current conservation programs.
The entry to this NP quickly reminds you of what the road conditions will be with a self serve tyre pressure station for those not already equipped.
The challenging sandy track and clay birridas takes us to Gregories camp site and it is here that we have spectacular views where striking red dunes give way to brilliant white beaches and crystal blue waters. We try our luck at fishing whilst Claire sketches her wildflowers.
Once again we miss our "Stairway to the Moon" but were rewarded instead with a "Stairway to the Sun".
Exmouth - Wooramel Roadhouse via Carnarvon 17th August 2011
A travel day today with beautiful scenery as we are en route to Denham.
Restock of supplies at Carnavon and it is not hard to miss the Overseas Telecommunications (OTC) dish as it dominates the Carnarvon skyline. It played a signicant role in the space race of the 1960's & 1970's. Messages to the Apollo mission that landed on the moon were relayed through installations in Carnavon when the orbit passed the southern hemisphere. It was also from here that Australia received it's first satellite television broadcast. The station closed in 1987 after assisting in tracking Halley's comet in 1986.
As we arrive at Woomeral Roadhouse we learn that water is scarce in this area and even the bore water has a high salinity. A horse named Princess keeps the kids entertained.
Restock of supplies at Carnavon and it is not hard to miss the Overseas Telecommunications (OTC) dish as it dominates the Carnarvon skyline. It played a signicant role in the space race of the 1960's & 1970's. Messages to the Apollo mission that landed on the moon were relayed through installations in Carnavon when the orbit passed the southern hemisphere. It was also from here that Australia received it's first satellite television broadcast. The station closed in 1987 after assisting in tracking Halley's comet in 1986.
As we arrive at Woomeral Roadhouse we learn that water is scarce in this area and even the bore water has a high salinity. A horse named Princess keeps the kids entertained.
Swimming with the Whalesharks
Swimming with the Whalesharks.
The excitement was building as we waited for the tour bus to pick us up. As we headed for the boat ramp our tour guide told us about the massive array of radio towers that are located at the tip of Cape Range. It turns out that they are part of the US Navy Submarine Comunication System which uses Ultra Low Frequency to communicate with their subs even if they are underwater. As interesting as it was it wasn't why we were there. We had been told to expect 4m swells so we had taken some anti seasickness medication. We arrived at the boat ramp and jumped into the zodiac and headed out to the boat. When everyone was on board we were kitted out with snorkeling gear and wetsuits. An informative lecture on whalesharks followed before we headed for our first stop where we practiced rapid water entry for when we come
across a whaleshark. We had a leisurely snorkel before heading back to the boat and some morning tea. This was the kids second go at snorkeling and they did really well. We saw turtles and heaps of fish. Dad was looking around for the tartare sauce. As we headed beyond the protection of the reef it got rougher and we were thankful of the Qwells we had taken earlier. It wasn't long before we got the call we were waiting for " Whaleshark ". We geared up and lined up on our butts facing the stern of the boat. The spotter went in the water to make sure it wasn't a different non-plakton eating shark and the next thing we hear is GO GO GO. This was our signal to make like a bucket full of eels and slither off the boat. We entered the water with a rough idea where the whaleshark was. Nothing prepares you for the first encounter. Out of the gloom comes this massive shape moving with unhurried grace and beauty. My first thought is " goodness me it is huge" or words similar in meaning. My next thought is " I hope Angus doesn't look like plankton". We move to the side of this magnificent creature and swim beside it for as long as we can keep up with it. A multitude of smaller fish swim below it using the whaleshark as protection or catching a free ride in it's bow wave. As this gentle giant of the deep pulls away from us we wait to be picked up by the boat reliving this surreal experience with our fellow swimmers. We clamber back into the boat and compose ourselves for our next encounter. After another swim with this whaleshark it takes it's leave and dives down where we cannot follow. Shortly after this a manta ray is spotted. We flow out of the boat but are unable to find it. We return to the boat out of breath and a bit disappointed. However it isn't long before we line up again and swarm back into the ocean. Marie has a bit of a fright when she isn't met by the manta ray she was expecting, but a 5.5 metre whaleshark that was heading straight for her. She was caught between the boat and the shark and had nowhere to go. As a result Marie had the closest view of a shark that day ( lucky girl ). This shark had nothing better to do and was happy to swim slowly along giving us a wonderful experience. All to soon it was over and without realizing we had spent 1 hr 10 mins in the water with these amazing creatures. We had swum with 3 whalesharks ranging from 3.5 to 5.5 metres long. As the swell was getting worse we headed back to the shelter of the reef where we had lunch. We were amused when the first mate informed us of the rules of lunch. ' Ladies first, followed by the blokes and then the crew, normal portions first and only after everyone has had something can you have backpacker sized portions.' After lunch we had another snorkel before heading back to shore and then back to Exmouth. This experience was one of the major highlights of our trip and Marie and I are so proud of our kids for their enthusiasm and effort. This is one of those family times that will be forever etched into our memories.
The excitement was building as we waited for the tour bus to pick us up. As we headed for the boat ramp our tour guide told us about the massive array of radio towers that are located at the tip of Cape Range. It turns out that they are part of the US Navy Submarine Comunication System which uses Ultra Low Frequency to communicate with their subs even if they are underwater. As interesting as it was it wasn't why we were there. We had been told to expect 4m swells so we had taken some anti seasickness medication. We arrived at the boat ramp and jumped into the zodiac and headed out to the boat. When everyone was on board we were kitted out with snorkeling gear and wetsuits. An informative lecture on whalesharks followed before we headed for our first stop where we practiced rapid water entry for when we come
across a whaleshark. We had a leisurely snorkel before heading back to the boat and some morning tea. This was the kids second go at snorkeling and they did really well. We saw turtles and heaps of fish. Dad was looking around for the tartare sauce. As we headed beyond the protection of the reef it got rougher and we were thankful of the Qwells we had taken earlier. It wasn't long before we got the call we were waiting for " Whaleshark ". We geared up and lined up on our butts facing the stern of the boat. The spotter went in the water to make sure it wasn't a different non-plakton eating shark and the next thing we hear is GO GO GO. This was our signal to make like a bucket full of eels and slither off the boat. We entered the water with a rough idea where the whaleshark was. Nothing prepares you for the first encounter. Out of the gloom comes this massive shape moving with unhurried grace and beauty. My first thought is " goodness me it is huge" or words similar in meaning. My next thought is " I hope Angus doesn't look like plankton". We move to the side of this magnificent creature and swim beside it for as long as we can keep up with it. A multitude of smaller fish swim below it using the whaleshark as protection or catching a free ride in it's bow wave. As this gentle giant of the deep pulls away from us we wait to be picked up by the boat reliving this surreal experience with our fellow swimmers. We clamber back into the boat and compose ourselves for our next encounter. After another swim with this whaleshark it takes it's leave and dives down where we cannot follow. Shortly after this a manta ray is spotted. We flow out of the boat but are unable to find it. We return to the boat out of breath and a bit disappointed. However it isn't long before we line up again and swarm back into the ocean. Marie has a bit of a fright when she isn't met by the manta ray she was expecting, but a 5.5 metre whaleshark that was heading straight for her. She was caught between the boat and the shark and had nowhere to go. As a result Marie had the closest view of a shark that day ( lucky girl ). This shark had nothing better to do and was happy to swim slowly along giving us a wonderful experience. All to soon it was over and without realizing we had spent 1 hr 10 mins in the water with these amazing creatures. We had swum with 3 whalesharks ranging from 3.5 to 5.5 metres long. As the swell was getting worse we headed back to the shelter of the reef where we had lunch. We were amused when the first mate informed us of the rules of lunch. ' Ladies first, followed by the blokes and then the crew, normal portions first and only after everyone has had something can you have backpacker sized portions.' After lunch we had another snorkel before heading back to shore and then back to Exmouth. This experience was one of the major highlights of our trip and Marie and I are so proud of our kids for their enthusiasm and effort. This is one of those family times that will be forever etched into our memories.
Exmouth bound
Exmouth and the Whalesharks.
We left Dampier and headed south along the North West Coastal Highway to Exmouth where we were hoping to swim with the famous whalesharks. We didn't like our chances as the season for them to be at Ningaloo Reef was from March to the end of July. As we were arriving mid August we were expecting to be told that the biggest fish in the world had ' left the building'. We were pleased to find that the Whalesharks don't read the pamphlets and were still in the area and that the cruises were 1/2 price. We booked our seats on the next available trip which was in 3 days. We settled into the caravan park for our stay. The next day we travelled around the coast to the Cape Range National Park first stopping of at the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse were we saw whales cavorting in the distance. Our next stop was the Jurabi Turtle center which wasn't in use due to the turtles being at sea ( wrong season ). We stopped at Ned's Camp and enjoyed the view before heading onto the Milyering Visitor Centre which had a mountain of information and educational videos. After increasing our knowledge we went to Lakeside where we were able to have a swim. We decided to return the next day to take advantage of the snorkel hire and let the kids have a go at snorkeling before going out with the whalesharks. After picking up our snorkeling gear we headed for Turquoise Bay as this had been recommended by the people at the Visitor Center. Turquoise Bay offered a drift snorkel were you enter the water, swim a short distance out to the reef, drift with the current for approximately 200m before returning to the beach where with much enthusiasm you raced back along the beach to do it again. Each run took roughly 1/2 hour and we saw an enormous variety of fish and other aquatic creatures. Unfortunately on one of the runs Marie and Claire got into some trouble when they found themselves further out than they realized and had to fight the current to get back to shore. Having learnt a valuable lesson we made a few more runs before retiring for the day. We were very proud of Claire for giving it another go after having an unpleasant experience. We returned to Exmouth tired and cold but happy. After tea we headed for bed for tomorrow we were swimming with the Whalesharks !!!!!
We left Dampier and headed south along the North West Coastal Highway to Exmouth where we were hoping to swim with the famous whalesharks. We didn't like our chances as the season for them to be at Ningaloo Reef was from March to the end of July. As we were arriving mid August we were expecting to be told that the biggest fish in the world had ' left the building'. We were pleased to find that the Whalesharks don't read the pamphlets and were still in the area and that the cruises were 1/2 price. We booked our seats on the next available trip which was in 3 days. We settled into the caravan park for our stay. The next day we travelled around the coast to the Cape Range National Park first stopping of at the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse were we saw whales cavorting in the distance. Our next stop was the Jurabi Turtle center which wasn't in use due to the turtles being at sea ( wrong season ). We stopped at Ned's Camp and enjoyed the view before heading onto the Milyering Visitor Centre which had a mountain of information and educational videos. After increasing our knowledge we went to Lakeside where we were able to have a swim. We decided to return the next day to take advantage of the snorkel hire and let the kids have a go at snorkeling before going out with the whalesharks. After picking up our snorkeling gear we headed for Turquoise Bay as this had been recommended by the people at the Visitor Center. Turquoise Bay offered a drift snorkel were you enter the water, swim a short distance out to the reef, drift with the current for approximately 200m before returning to the beach where with much enthusiasm you raced back along the beach to do it again. Each run took roughly 1/2 hour and we saw an enormous variety of fish and other aquatic creatures. Unfortunately on one of the runs Marie and Claire got into some trouble when they found themselves further out than they realized and had to fight the current to get back to shore. Having learnt a valuable lesson we made a few more runs before retiring for the day. We were very proud of Claire for giving it another go after having an unpleasant experience. We returned to Exmouth tired and cold but happy. After tea we headed for bed for tomorrow we were swimming with the Whalesharks !!!!!
Burrup Peninsula 12th August 2011
We decided that there was more to be discovered at Dampier and onthe Peninsula and thus re-visited the NW Gas Shelf VC and then moved onto the Aboriginal Petroglyphs that are found here. This art differs to other art as they are not drawings as such but more like etchings which are initially hard to see but once found can be seen everywhere in the area. It is believed that these petroglyphs may number over 100,000 making it the largest rock art site in the world and was heritage listed in 2007. These engravings generally depict anthropomorphic figures, fauna, animal tracks & abstract symbols. We mostly saw animals.
From this art site it was down to Hearson's Cove in order to witness "Staircase to the Moon". This is a natural occuring phenomenon which is caused by the rising of the full moon reflecting off the exposed mud flats at extremely low tide thus creating an optical illusion of stairs reaching to the moon. We were however not in luck because by the time that the tide was at it's lowest, the moon had already risen. Oh well, we had fun in the rock pools anyway...
From this art site it was down to Hearson's Cove in order to witness "Staircase to the Moon". This is a natural occuring phenomenon which is caused by the rising of the full moon reflecting off the exposed mud flats at extremely low tide thus creating an optical illusion of stairs reaching to the moon. We were however not in luck because by the time that the tide was at it's lowest, the moon had already risen. Oh well, we had fun in the rock pools anyway...
Karratha - Dampier tour Thursday 11th August 2011
We go on a Visitor Centre organized tour of the surrounds. Our first stop is at Australia's largest solar salt fields owned by Dampier Salt which has a total operating area of 10,000 hectares with a current production capability of 4.2 million tonnes / year. Harvested salt is mainly used for chemicals, industrial and road de-icing in Europe.
We then had to don our protective Rio Tinto "gear" for our tour of theParker Point production facilities. Two types of iron ore are exported from here - Lump and Fines. Operations are 24/7, 7 days per week. It is here that the ore trains from Tom Price are unloaded, stock-piled by Stackers (stockpile capacity of 18 X 210,000 tonnes) and scooped up by the Reclaimers to load onto the ships. These ship loaders load 10,000 tonnes per hour and takes approx. 24-36 hours for 1 export carrier. Interesting, but BHP Billiton & Port Headland have the better facilities.
The next part of the tour takes us to the North West Shelf Venture Visitors' Centre which overlooks he Woodside operated Gas Plant at Karratha and learn about Australia's largest oil and gas resource development.
Following the tour, we make our way around and find Red Dog's Memorial and observe the workings of another FIFO mining town.
We then had to don our protective Rio Tinto "gear" for our tour of theParker Point production facilities. Two types of iron ore are exported from here - Lump and Fines. Operations are 24/7, 7 days per week. It is here that the ore trains from Tom Price are unloaded, stock-piled by Stackers (stockpile capacity of 18 X 210,000 tonnes) and scooped up by the Reclaimers to load onto the ships. These ship loaders load 10,000 tonnes per hour and takes approx. 24-36 hours for 1 export carrier. Interesting, but BHP Billiton & Port Headland have the better facilities.
The next part of the tour takes us to the North West Shelf Venture Visitors' Centre which overlooks he Woodside operated Gas Plant at Karratha and learn about Australia's largest oil and gas resource development.
Following the tour, we make our way around and find Red Dog's Memorial and observe the workings of another FIFO mining town.
Karajini to Karratha Wednesday 10th August 2011
After a stop at the Mt Bruce and a view of Marandoo mine, we moved on through Tom Price en route to Karratha. It was our intention to take the shortened mine road along the railway but an enquiry at the "I" changed our mind. It was all Rio Tinto rules & besides we didn't want to chew the red iron ore dust at 60kms/hr behind the haulpacks and other mine vehicles. We instead took the scenic route through Rio Tinto Gorge and through the Millstream-Chichester N.P.
This NP was a complete change from what we had experienced already. Driving between the Millstream & Chichester ranges, the road meanders through rolling, rounded dome hills dusted in spinifex and snappy gums along with splatterings of Sturt Desert Peas.
On our journey, we are also alongside the long iron ore trains on their journey to the port in Karratha.
We stay out on the Dampier Peninsular for the night.
This NP was a complete change from what we had experienced already. Driving between the Millstream & Chichester ranges, the road meanders through rolling, rounded dome hills dusted in spinifex and snappy gums along with splatterings of Sturt Desert Peas.
On our journey, we are also alongside the long iron ore trains on their journey to the port in Karratha.
We stay out on the Dampier Peninsular for the night.
Karajini National Park Tuesday 9th August 2011
We commence our trailblazing with a steep walk down to the spring-fed permanent Fortescue Falls and onto Fern Pool which was surrounded by ferns. Although the pool looked very inviting, we continued our walk along the gorge floor before reaching Circular Falls. Our ascent out of the gorge and back to Dales Gorge took us past white snappy gums, shady groves of cypress pines and lots of acacia species.
The afternoon was filled on wih a drive to Joffre and Knox lookouts with Joffre Gorge the more impressive of the two with it's spectacular waterfall forming a natural ampitheatre. We continued onto Oxer & Junction pool Lookouts which provided spectacular views of precipitous cliffs, narrow passages & banded iron rock formations that tower over the valleys far below where the Hancock and Weano gorges unite.
Of course, like all others in Australia, we completed the 2011 Census.
The afternoon was filled on wih a drive to Joffre and Knox lookouts with Joffre Gorge the more impressive of the two with it's spectacular waterfall forming a natural ampitheatre. We continued onto Oxer & Junction pool Lookouts which provided spectacular views of precipitous cliffs, narrow passages & banded iron rock formations that tower over the valleys far below where the Hancock and Weano gorges unite.
Of course, like all others in Australia, we completed the 2011 Census.
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