Ceduna 12 Sept

Since Angus is keen on these wombat creatures, we visit the Wombat Fauna Rescue Homestead. This place is a refuge run solely on donations and faith by a lady named Val. We learn of the mysterious disease which has affected a number of these wombats whereby it's central nervous system is becoming affected once the animal reaches 3kg. Studies are being conducted by universities in South Australia. The kids get to interact and cuddle these animals along with lambs and a baby emu all of which have been orphaned.

From here we visit the fish markets and move around to Thevenard which is a deep sea port exporting facility for grain, salt, mineral sands and gypsum. Pinky Point Lookout provided a vantage point for sea-lion spotting and they were happy to laze around on the rocks to be spotted.

We continue around the shoreline and foreshore to the jetty where we find crystal clear waters but no fish to be caught.

The Nullarbor Run 9-10-11 Sept

Day 1 Kalgoorlie  - Cocklebiddy

We set out from Kalgoorlie enroute for the Nullarbor including the longest straight stretch of road in Australia - being 146.6km in length. 

We appreciate having to share the highway with other traffic including Royal Flying Doctor Servive aircraft.

We make camp at the roadhouse at Cocklebiddy hoping to find the caves.

Day 2 

We find that the Department of Environment and Conservation has actually closed the caves to the public as they were underground and full of water.

We explore the old Telegraph Station ruins at Eucla. Just as we think that the sand is engulfing the ruins, we meet a fellow who says that more of the ruins are exposed now than when he saw them 15 years ago. We can work out the length of time that they were covered by the years of graffiti that are missing. We lunch and try to use the last of our fruit and veggies before crossing the border to SA. This includes cutting up our last onion and adding it to our sandwich. We set off for the border burping raw onion only to find we don't have to stop or get rid of stuff here. It's after Ceduna that the fruit-fly exclusion zone starts. We continue our journey and pass various trees adorned with items of apparel including shirts, shoes and underwear. Others are decorated with glass and plastic bottles, I guess you need to break the boredom when you do this trip all of the time.

We make camp in South Australia behind a truck parking area just before the aboriginal reserve.
Day 3 final run to Ceduna
We hear an almighty loud noise to break the silence as we finish packing up and we turn on the two-way to hear that a truckie with a wide load has just seized a wheel bearing on his dolly. Not much we can do except get passed before the road is blocked. He has a couple of pilot vehicles with him to help.

The Nullarbor Cliffs stretch unbroken for 209kms from Wilson's Bluff at the WA border to the Head of Bight and plummet 90m into the Southern Ocean.  It is at one of the various viewing spots that we meet 3 QLD couples travelling Redcliffe to Perth and back in 5 short weeks.
The Nullarbor NP adjoins the Great Australian Bight and extends inland. It encompasses approximate. 2,867,000 hectares from WA border to the  Nullarbor Roadhouse (297kms west of Ceduna), & north beyond the Transcontinental Railway Line. The Eyre Highway passes the coastal areas of the park and only traverses a short section of the true Nullarbor.

We visit the Head of Bight Interpretive Centre and viewing area which is also situated on the Yalata Aboriginal Lands (this aboriginal community consists of approximately 400 people and extends for 150kms of the Eyre Highway). This area becomes a playground for migrating Southern Right Whales from May to October. We are rewarded with unforgettable playful behaviour of about 30ish Southern Right whale mother and calves just 10-15m from us. One of these is a recently born white calf. These creatures are amazing and so trusting considering the history of whaling just down the road at Albany.
The Great Australian Bight Marine Park WA's established in 1996, further recognising the importance of these whales.
As we continue on, the landscape changes from windswept coast to green pasture with small earthy mounds. These mounds belong to the Southern Hairy-nosed wombat which breed prolifically in the good seasons. Thus the road kill changes from roos to huge solid wombats, better them than us. The sign at Nundroo Roadhouse says it all -
"Wecome to Nundroo,
Population 12,
Sheep 10,000,
Wombats 2.5 million".
We make it to Ceduna without making a dent in the wombat population.

Kalgoorlie 7-8/9/2011

The Mining Hall of Fame is our destination for today. Here we are able to immerse ourselves in mining history, memorabilia, and displays. We book in for an underground  mine tour and another gold pour. While waiting we explore the various areas including the huge 793C dump truck and underground miner's refuge. There are many displays of mining equipment and infrastructure that keep us busy until it is our turn to gather at the massive shaft headframe.

We choose our hard hats and wait to take our place in the small cage for the journey underground. It is a tight fit for 2 adults 2 kids and an operator. We are told that when this was a working mine that this cage would take 6 beefy miners for each trip. We travel 35m to the  first level where we disembark. We meet Jim who is our guide and an old hand at underground mining who in his later years has become a tour guide.

We are kept entertained with an educational, informative and funny narrative of the hardship and conditions of underground mining. Too soon we return to the surface informed and amazed at the tenacity and perseverance of the underground miners and the dangerous conditions that they encountered every day. We head to the gold room to see the gold pour. Although we had seen gold pours in Perth it is still interesting and informative. We find that the day has gone too fast and we still have much to see. We decide to come back tomorrow as our entry ticket allows us 2 days entry. 

8/9/2011

We come back to the Mining Hall of Fame to see what we couldn't fit in yesterday. We go through the main display building which houses a huge display of minerals from around the world. There are more 'ite's' than you can poke a stick at. Stolzite, Manganocalcite, Rhodonite, Apophyllite, Kutnahorite, and Calaverite just to name a few. There are also many more well know minerals and gems such as Gypsum, Copper, Silver, Rubies, Diamonds and of course Gold. We learn about the different methods of mining that are required for the different minerals. We read stories of the various prospectors and of the booms and busts associated with the mining industry. After we had dug through all the information we could process, we took our leave and headed elsewhere.

 The local RFDS base is our next stop but we arrive to late for the last tour of the day. We have a look through their display of memorabilia where the kids pedal on the Traeger pedal radio ( again ). We then head back to camp to find we had more neighbors in the overflow area where we were setup.  After we all introduced ourselves the chairs and drinks came out and many stories of our separate adventures were told. We head to bed a bit later than planned but still set the alarm as we are off across the Nullabour tomorrow. 

Kalgoorlie 6/9/2011

Today we head for the Superpit lookout where we can gaze into the depths of this massive open-cut goldmine. For years the area known as 'The Golden Mile' had been a series of individual mining leases where underground mining of the rich ore bodies was conducted by various mining companies and individual operators. A shrewd business man realized the need to progress to open-cut where the economic advantage of large scale operations would be more profitable. This business man started buying up the various leases in order to start what is now known as the Superpit. Unfortunately Alan Bond couldn't complete his plan and Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines Pty Ltd (KCGM)  combined the entire area in 1989 and open-cut mining began.

From the lookout we watch the huge trucks and loaders operating at various levels in the mine and the drilling rigs drilling the precise pattern of holes required for blasting. After sometime watching these operations we take the chance to look at some of the various machinery on display when we notice the gravel that we are walking on has some distinctive sparkling specks that might be gold ( but are more likely to be pyrite or fool's gold). Claire develops a certain condition commonly found near goldmines and with some reluctance gets in the car when it is time to go.

We drive around the town seeing the old buildings, many damaged by the earthquake last year. We visit the Superpit shop where we watch an informative video about the Pit and the town before heading to the Mount Charlotte Lookout where we learn about the struggle to secure a reliable water supply and how in the past water was more valuable than gold. The pipeline was conceived by C Y O'Connor and was able to deliver 23000 kilolitres per day via 8 steam driven pumping stations and 566km of steel pipe and is recognized as a National Engineering Landmark. We head back to our caravan park to plan the next day. 

Esperance to Kalgoorlie Monday 5th September

Esperance is very much a coastal holiday village and after having a look around the harbor, we continue our journey through WA's Golden Outback region.
We head through Norseman which is situated at the crossroads of Highway 1 across the Nullabor and 94 to the Southwrn Goldfields. Gold was discovered in 1894 by prospector Laurie Sinclair when his horse Norseman went lame & Laurie discovered that the piece of rock lodged in the horse's hoof was gold bearing. This resulted in a major find that sparked a gold rush and established a town that was named in honour of a horse.
It became evident that there are no roadside recycling bins on the road between Norseman & Kalgoorlie - Boulder by the over abundance of glass bottles littering the table drains. Not sure what the targets are but there are plenty of misses.
Once again we find ourselves short of inexpensive accommodation as the asking price is $60 for an unpowered tent site. With a declaration that we are not miners, thus should not have to pay miner's rates, we accept an overflow site at a different park at a third of the cost. 

Albany to Esperance - Happy Father's Day 04/09/11

Staying in a cabin overnight not only keeps us warm and dry but provides an opportunity for the kids to cook Dad breakfast for Father's Day.
Albany was selected asthe departure point for ANZAC troops due to it's important coal and port facilities. The first convoy sailed out of King George Sound bound for Gallipoli on 1st November 1914 and took 30 000 ANZAC troops, 7500 horses and supplies on a fleet 40 transport ships & 5 naval escort vehicles. Albany was the last sighting of Australia for those who fought and died at Gallipoli, in France or the Middle East. Thus Albany's place in history is recognised at many sites around the town.
On the foreshore is ANZAC Peace Park along with The Desert Mounted Corps memorial which features an Australian mounted soldier assisting a NZ soldier whose horse has been wounded. It is from this vantage point at Mt Clarence that we are supposed to have breathtaking island and ocean views however on this day, Albany is shrouded in mist and low cloud and thus poor visability.
We visit an impressive ship on the foreshore which is a full-scale relic of the Brig Amity which brought the first settlers and then convicts to Albany in 1826. We climbed aboard and went below decks not just because it was pouring rain but to follow the ship's journey from Sydney to Albany. It also filled the void in learning about these ships along the WA coast and give Angus and Claire first hand experience of the life of a sailor in 1826.
We head out of Albany and even though it would be incredible to take in the jagged peaks of the Stirling Ranges, we figure it will be unlikely to have good visibility considering the weather.
We travel ongside the Fitzgerald River NP and the pristine Fitzgerald Biosphere Reserve which are areas of terrestrial and coastal ecosystems endorsed by the United Nations. This reserve contains an undisturbed core enclosed by the Fitzgerald NP surrounded by a buffer of uncleared bush, protected coastline and marine environment.
Interesting concept since on the other side of the road is overused and cleared pastoral land. 
Another "Pink Lake" in Esperance but only at a particular time of the year (not now). We stay in a cabin due to the weather again but are hoping to use the tents at our next stop as these cabins really bite into our budget. 

Gloucester Tree to Albany Saturday 3rd September

 
Once again it is a cold, misty and dreary morning. regardless, we head out to Gloucester National Park which has several walks however it is the boy's intention to scale the Gloucester Tree. This tree along with 2 others - The Bicentennial Tree and the Diamond Tree were originally constructed in the 1930's & 1940's as fire lookouts in the top of Karri trees. These lookouts in the treetops were an ingenious way of spotting fires in such tall forest. The Gloucester Tree towers 61m above the forest and has a series of reo bars that spiral upward and act as footpegs. The boys make it up halfway before it starts pouring rain and very slippery and thus disappointingly but safely descend to the forest floor.
We continue on through these forests to the township of Walpole an this area is famous for it's Red Tingle trees (Eucalyptus Jacksonii). The Giant Tingle Tree is over 450 years old & measures 24min girth at it's base. We move on to visit Valley of the Giants and the Wilderness Discovery Centre. We take the Tree Top Walk which is a 600m walkway rising 40m above the forest floor and provides a breathtaking experience a birds eye view of the forest. With the rain and winds picking up, it almost provided a little extra along the way also.... A meandering boardwalk also takes us through a grove of veteran Tingle trees called the Ancient Empire. This walk lets us experience at close hand some of the unique shapes of some of the giant trees. We walk through the hollowed out base of one. Along this path, we encounter the story of these ancient trees. We pass more wildflowers, this time native slipper orchids and tassel flowers interspersed with native grasses, moss, lichen and fungi.
We taste more samples of fudge, condiments and honey at Denmark before travelling once more through sweeping pastoral vistas and ocean scenery and into Albany.

Cape Leeuwin to Pemberton Friday 2nd September 2011

We travel through the Township of Margaret River enjoying fudge, nougat, jams and conserves on our way to Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. We take the scenic route via Skippy Rock with stunning ocean views of the coastline. The old Waterwheel was constructed in 1895 during the building of the lighthouse when a spring was tapped to provide fresh water for the workers. Originally built of timber, it has now turned to stone.
In 1895 construction of the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse began to make the passage safer for seafarers. Situated at the most south westerly tip in Australia, standing at the point where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet. It is the tallest lighthouse on Australian mainland and we climbed the 176 steps to the viewing platform. It remains an important maritime and meteorological landmark and one of the few remaining operational lighthouse open to the public.
We travel on past Augusta along Brockman Highway to the last of the "UP" towns being Peerabeelup. As the rain continues, we now start to travel through completely different landscape and the start of the Karri Forests.
World famous for it's soaring Karri and Tingle Forests, the deep red timber of the jarrah and pristine wilderness areas, this is a beautiful region. Stunning rivers that form cascading waterfalls, glassy lakes and pools are also populated with trout, perch and maroon (a freshwater crayfish).
Accommodation tonight will have 4 solid walls and a roof rather than that of canvas.

Cape Naturaliste whale watching - Thurs 1st day of Spring

We visit the Candy Cow in Cowaramup and then take a drive to the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse and we take a walk around a couple of the trails. We take advantage of the stunning views in the National Park along with more wildflowers. It is here that is also a good vantage point for whale spotting. Between September & December, Southern Right, Humpback and Blue Whales are all commonly seen off the coast. We experience the magic of them basking, breaching and tail lobbing just 100-150m offshore. The park even provides a purpose build platform to enjoy the experience. 
The weather turns squally and we cut our losses and give up on the idea of visiting any one of 5 caves in the area and head back to our abode.

Margaret River Delights Wednesday 31st August 2011

We had grandiose ideas of exploring the area between the two coastal capes that begins at Cape Naturaliste and extends 138kms south to Cape Leeuwin. We instead find that a smorgasbord of gastronomic delights awaited us today. Some of these delectable delights include cheese & yoghurt from The Margaret River (MR) Dairy Company, MR Nuts & Cereals, Lavender Devonshire Tea along with more chocolate. We also sample olive oil, jams & condiments at Providore.
The afternoon was spent at Yallingup Maze where we not only find our way out but enjoy family time completing an assortment of games and puzzles spread out on numerous coffee tables. Some challenging and some just frustrating.
The day was finished off with home made ice-cream.

Woodman Point - Cowaramup Tuesday 30/8/11

Fremantle Cemetery is attracts visitors including us to the memorial gardens E3 Plot 33, the resting place of Ronald Scott (otherwise known as Bon Scott) who died alone in London.
We travel south, have lunch at Yarloop - an old railway village, sample cheeses from Harvey Cheese Factory and arrive at Busselton. We walk the 1.841km length of the 145 year old Busselton Jetty, the longest timber piled jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. Our view out toward Dunsborough & Cape Naturaliste is not looking promising for dry weather. We were correct in our assumptions and arrive at Taunton Farm to a wet campsite.

The Fremantle Prison.

Today we set off to explore the Fremantle Prison. This ominous and imposing structure was built in the 1850's by convict labour and was in use up until 1991 when it was decommissioned. We elected to do two tours. The first was a general look at the prison and the conditions the prisoners had to endure while the second tour intrigued us with stories of escape attempts and tales of the various customers that this establishment catered for. Our first tour (Doing Time Tour)  took use through the route and procedures that a new prisoner would experience. All was good until the tour guide picked Nick for a demonstration of the pre-entry search that new prisoners were subjected to. As the guide (??? ex prison guard 6'2 no nonsense ) slipped on a glove and told me to drop my dacks , my response of " not for anything less than $200" was a poor attempt to cover my nervousness. Note to self DO NOT BREAK THE LAW!!! We continue through the wash area where the prisoners had their first and last decent semi-private shower. After that they were lucky to get two showers per week in open shower blocks. Don't drop the soap! We then go through the kitchen where the food was cooked in huge cookers and then onto the exercise yard where the food was eaten, toilet buckets emptied and cleaned, and if you had no job this was where you spent the day. The shelter we stood under was only put there in the 80's as too the doors on the two toilets that served 200 crims. There was only one guard per exercise yard and he was safely locked into a small enclosure to keep him safe. ??? Who is the prisoner???  We then go into Main Block where the prisoners spent the night. We see the suicide netting that was installed after one prisoner took the quick way down from the 4th floor. We learnt how the guards wouldn't walk in the centre area as toilet buckets had a bad habit of being knocked over. We were shown the chapel where the prisoners were able to attend the weekly service. The main wall of the chapel is intricately decorated with the Lord's Prayer and the 10 Commandments. Interestingly as many of the guards were ex soldiers the commandment 'thou shalt not kill' has been reworded as ' thou shalt not do murder'. The prisoner who painted these decorative panels was illiterate and copied the words letter by letter over a period of many months. His sentence was then reduced by the same time it took for him to do this work. We see the progression of cells from their original state through the years to how they were when the prison was closed. We see some of the artwork in the cells. Until a couple of years prior to closure any marking of cell walls was strictly forbidden but due to the impending demolition of the prison this rule was relaxed for some of the inmates. The prison was then heritage listed so these artworks remain. The flogging post was our next stop before heading to the solitary confinement cells. Prisoners who were sentenced to solitary were held in these cells in total isolation for 23 hrs a day. They were let out individually for one hr in a separate exercise yard where their only human contact was with the guard that was assigned to supervise them. There were 12 cells and they were all alike except cell 12 which was closest to the entrance of the solitary block. This cell was for holding prisoners who were to be executed. We walked the short distance from this cell to the gallows where their sentence was carried out. Unlike the drawn out process that is portrayed in the movies, the time taken from leaving the cell to being hung was on average 90 seconds. It was very sobering to see a gallows that had been used to end the life of 43 men and one woman. The noose that was hanging from the heavy beam was not a prop. It was set up for the last man to be hung but not used as his sentence had been reduced to life imprisonment. We had lunch before going on our second tour, the Great Escapes tour. We were taken through different areas of the prison and shown were different escape attempts were made. We saw the entrance to the vast tunnel system that was dug out by the prisoners as part of a water supply system for Fremantle. We saw the cells of Bon Scott, Moondyne Joe, Brendan Abbot, and other previous customers of Freo prison. All in all we had an informative and eye opening experience that reinforces the desire to be a law abiding citizen. 

Our days in Fremantle 26-29/08/11

Our first day we visit the inner Fremantle where much of the colonial architecture remains and is virtually unchanged since the mid-19th Century. It has retained the charm of yesteryear & it is very evident when we visit the Fremantle Markets (established in 1867).
Day 2 begins at the Shipwreck Galleries which are housed in the restored convict built Commissariat building. It is recognised as the foremost maritime archeology museum in the Southern Hemisphere. This gave us amazing insight into the early shipbuilding, the wealth and influence of the East-India Trading company, the treasures and relics of the many ships wrecked along the treacherous Western Australian coast. We learned of the difficulties of exploration, retrieval and restoration of these wrecks and relics. Some of these include original timbers from the Dutch VOC ship the Batavia, wrecked in 1629. We had learned a little of these wrecks as we came down the WA coast but it was here that we consolidated this knowledge. We enjoyed fish & chips at Freo's Fishing Boat Harbour @ Joes Fish Shack.
Our walk continues passed the Round House, the oldest remaining public building in WA and was the Swan River Colony's first jail but with the arrival of convicts in 1850 became inadequate and Fremantle Prison was built. 
We catch a glimpse of the Collins class sub which is moored in Port beside the E-Shed markets.
Day 3 takes us to the Western Australian Maritime Museum which exhibits significant historic objects & boats that highlight WA's sporting & adventure heritage including the winged keel of Australia II that won Australia's first America's Cup. The exhibitions tell the stories of human endeavour and courage. It is here that we take a tour of the fascinating decommissioned submarine HMAS Ovens. We had an informative tour aboard and learned of the demanding environment in which these sailors lived and worked in such close confines. We continue to explore the maritime museum and find that we are among the last people to leave before the doors are locked for the night. We head back to our camp and plan our next day of doing time at the infamous Freo Prison. 

Perth 24-25th August 2011

Day 1
More rain overnight but has fined this morning. After a drive along the Swan River along Mounts Bay Road, we lunch in the WA University precinct before proceeding to King' Park & Botanical Gardens which is one of the largest inner city parks in the world. Our drive through the entrance is passed Eucalypt trees which honour the fallen from WW's.
A wildflower lovers paradise here with species from both the Northern & Souther regions of WA. Federation Walk takes us on a walkway above the treetops with interpretative Aboriginal history. The stroll takes us through various memorial gardens and onto the DNA Tower. 
Day 2
Our first sight seeing venture today is the Perth Mint. An enthusiastic guide provides us the opportunity to experience the excitement of the early gold rushes showing us replica nuggets found in WA including the Golden Eagle & Hand of Faith nuggets. We watched a gold pour in the original Melting House & handled $500,000 worth of gold bullion. We discovered the value of our weight in gold before heading into the vault. As we exit, we note that there must have been a change in the value of bullion as people are lined up to exchange bullion for cash.
An accidental discovery of the FESA museum sees Angus in his element. It is here that we see a number of exhibits pertaining to fire, storms, earthquakes, cyclones and rescue. A very interesting  place which is also used for school excursions.
A stroll down Hay St Mall takes us to London Court.  Built in 1937, one is able to step back into time in the setting of Tudor England. Copper coloured ships decorate the classically moulded ceilings at both entrances; and containers moulded with lions & unicorns line the walkway. At one end is a blue faced clock which chimes every 1/4 hour. The clock face is a replica of one of the dials in the clock tower that houses Big Ben in London. At one end of the court are four knights circling in the window when the clock chimes & isknown as Tournament of Armoured Knights, and at the other entrance is a miniature of St George doing battle with the dragon.
To finish our day, we move on to visit one of the largest musical instruments in the world - a set of 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. These bells are housed in the 82.5m high Bell Tower. The Oldest Bell in Australia dates back to 1550. The day finished we head back to the caravan park. 

Tuesday 23rd August Cervantes to Swan Valley

With no idea where we are going to stay in Perth, the Garmin takes us through the Swan Valley to the Visitor Centre & our decision is made. 
This region is 25 mins fom Perth & is WA's oldest & most visited wine growing region however we instead  enjoy the nearby historical village of Guildford a beautiful place. It has a collection of antique shops, cafes and pristine examples of European settlement buildings dating back to the 1830's.
The area offers a food & wine trail however we instead make our way to the Margaret River Chocolate factory, Mondo nougat factory and buzz into a honey outlet & cafe which provided the kids with more info about bees and they were able to see them at work through a glass hive.
Not much dinner required tonight.

Geralton to Cervantes Monday 22/08/11

After a delicious Chinese takeaway for tea and a dry night inside our cabin, we woke to find our decision to get a cabin was truly justified as it was wet and miserable outside. After a leisurely breakfast we waited for a break in the weather to pack the car. That done we found our way to the HMAS Sydney II memorial where we had a guided tour. The memorial honors the 645 sailors who were lost when the HMAS Sydney II was sunk after a battle with the German raider HSK Kormoran who was disguised as a Dutch trading ship. The Kormoran was cleverly designed with drop down sides that concealed it's guns allowing it to launch a surprise attack on the Sydney II. Unfortunately for the Kormoran, the Sydney II gave as good as she got and both ships ultimately sunk. The fate and resting place of both ships was a mystery until the wreckage of the Kormoran was found on the 12th March 2008. The Sydney was found 4 days later and the mystery was solved. The memorial in Geraldton is steeped in symbolism with a dome consisting of 645 seagulls representing the Australian sailors lost at sea. An inverted ship's propeller indicates a lost ship. The wall to the south shows photographs of the ship and has the names of all who were lost. A beautiful bronze statue of a woman gazing out to sea waiting for her loved one who will not be coming home. The Australian flag flys from the life-size representation of the bow of HMAS Sydney. The memorial was a solemn reminder of the ultimate sacrifice made by those who served on the HMAS Sydney II. After a period of time here we moved on. 
Our next stop was the St Francis Xavier Cathedral which was designed by the famed architect Monsignor Hawes. The foundation stone was laid in 1916 and the building was completed in 1938. We spent a while examining the beautiful stained glass windows before continuing our journey. We leave Geraldton and head down the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes where we visit the Pinnacles Desert. The Pinnacles are amazing limestone structures that are remnants of ancient shells. Time, wind and rain have removed material from around these upright columns resulting in their strange appearance. Dutch sailors in the mid 1650's thought they were the ruins of an ancient civilization. We went through the visitors center where we learned about the desert and it's inhabitants before going on the walk that weaves through these fantastic structures. Angus had fun playing leapfrog over some of the smaller peaks while the rest of us played hide and seek. We then headed into Cervantes where we stayed the night.  

Kalbarri NP & Coastal drive Sunday 21st August

Situated at the mouth of the Murchison River, Kalbarri also offers a NP for visitors to marvel at the carved landscape of river gorges and sea cliffs as well as the floral beauty of river redgums and wildflowers including the "Kalbarri Cat's paw".
We visit Nature's Window which is a natural rock arch that frames the upstream Murchison River as well as other lookouts and walks in Kalbarri NP including Z bend which contains the fossil tracks of a scorpion like creature called a eurypterid that grew up to 2m in length.
We then follow the coastal route which features magnificent, towering cliffs that plummet to the waves below. The 430 million year old sandstone & limestone coastline slowly yields to the force of the Indian Ocean which have sculptured some rather precarious rock formations including Island Rock & Natural Bridge.
Continuing south we dicover Hutt Lagoon, known as the Pink Lake, a betacarotene mine used as dietary supplements.
Our journey continues as the road winds through rolling hills and picturesque pastoral grazing land. Historic townships such as Northhampton where history abounds through buildings, convict ruins and a Governor's mansion are very different from the hardy, tough NP flora that we have seen to date.
Heavy rain and equally conditions on our way into Geralton finds us in the safety of a cabin for the night.

Kalbarri Saturday 20/08/11

We need a break from camping in NP  & with caravanners & elect to stay on a horse stud much to the kid's delight. They both enjoyed their ride as it is Angus' first unled ride and besides these kids usually have 4 wheels under them in the form of a quad bike not 4 legs.
We enjoy the homeliness and friendliness of the hosts & other guests (all of whom were from Perth).

Cape Peron day 2 Friday 19/08/11

We woke to the sound of waves breaking on the beach. Actually we hardly slept because of the waves breaking on the beach. At least when you are camped beside the road you have a break between trucks. After brekkie we packed up camp and headed further up the sandy track to the tip of Cape Peron and onto Skipjack Point. From the height of the cliffs we were able to see rays and fish swimming in the beautiful clear water. We remembered the binoculars this time and were rewarded when a dugong showed up for a quick smackeral  of sea grass. After spending some time gazing at this amazing vista we made our way back down the track slipping and sliding through the deep sand and shaking through the corrugations. We stopped at the homestead and visited the hot spring.
We will leave Monkey Mia for another time. 
Shell Beach in this area is unique as it is only 1 of 2 in the world made up of millions of tiny cockle shells which have adapted to live in the high salinity water. These shells are up to 10m deep and stretch across 120km and are harvested for use as bird & animal Ca++ supplements.
As we departed the area, we wound down our windows at the quarantine grid to hear recordings of barking dogs. These recordings are used in an attempt to deter feral cats from entering the Peron Peninsula and are triggered  when you cross the grid. The kids laughed for ages.
We camp along the track at Nerren Nerren.
 

Denham - Francois Peron National Park 18/08/11

We head into the Heritage listed area known by most to be Shark Bay Marine Park.
First stop is the Hamelin Pool Stromatalites & Telegraph Station which is home to the oldest living organisms on the planet. Stromatalites are approx. 3.5 million years old;  look like rocks but are composed of bacteria & algae and are extremely slow growing with a max. of 3mm/year. We also pass a shell quarry where early settlers cut shell bricks to make buildings here and at Denham.
After a lunch stop on the foreshore we head for Francois Peron National Park which lies within the Shark Bay World Heritage Area. The Peron Homestead precinct provides an insight into life on a working sheep station where a small interpretive centre depicts stories of Indigenous inhabitants, early European colonisation & current conservation programs.
The entry to this NP quickly reminds you of what the road conditions will be with a self serve tyre pressure station for those not already equipped.
The challenging sandy track and clay birridas takes us to Gregories camp site and it is here that we have spectacular views where striking red dunes give way to brilliant white beaches and crystal blue waters. We try our luck at fishing whilst Claire sketches her wildflowers.
Once again we miss our "Stairway to the Moon" but were rewarded instead with a "Stairway to the Sun".

Exmouth - Wooramel Roadhouse via Carnarvon 17th August 2011

A travel day today with beautiful scenery as we are en route to Denham.
Restock of supplies at Carnavon and it is not hard to miss the Overseas Telecommunications (OTC) dish as it dominates the Carnarvon skyline. It played a signicant role in the space race of the 1960's & 1970's. Messages to the Apollo mission that landed on the moon were relayed through installations in Carnavon when the orbit passed the southern hemisphere. It was also from here that Australia received it's first satellite television broadcast. The station closed in 1987 after assisting in tracking Halley's comet in 1986.
As we arrive at Woomeral Roadhouse we learn that water is scarce in this area and even the bore water has a high salinity. A horse named Princess keeps the kids entertained.

Swimming with the Whalesharks

Swimming with the Whalesharks.
The excitement was building as we waited for the tour bus to pick us up. As we headed for the boat ramp our tour guide told us about the massive array of radio towers that are located at the tip of Cape Range. It turns out that they are part of the US Navy Submarine Comunication System which uses Ultra Low Frequency to communicate with their subs even if they are underwater. As interesting as it was it wasn't why we were there. We had been told to expect 4m swells so we had taken some anti seasickness medication. We arrived at the boat ramp and jumped into the zodiac and headed out to the boat. When everyone was on board we were kitted out with snorkeling gear and wetsuits. An informative lecture on whalesharks followed before we headed for our first stop where we practiced rapid water entry for when we come 
across a whaleshark. We had a leisurely snorkel before heading back to the boat and some morning tea. This was the kids second go at snorkeling and they did really well. We saw turtles and heaps of fish. Dad was looking around for the tartare sauce. As we headed beyond the protection of the reef it got rougher and we were thankful of the Qwells we had taken earlier. It wasn't long before we got the call we were waiting for " Whaleshark ". We geared up and lined up on our butts facing the stern of the boat. The spotter went in the water to make sure it wasn't a different non-plakton eating shark and the next thing we hear is GO GO GO. This was our signal to make like a bucket full of eels and slither off the boat. We entered the water with a rough idea where the whaleshark was. Nothing prepares you for the first encounter. Out of the gloom comes this massive shape moving with unhurried grace and beauty. My first thought is " goodness me it is huge" or words similar in meaning.  My next thought is " I hope Angus doesn't look like plankton". We move to the side of this magnificent creature and swim beside it for as long as we can keep up with it. A multitude of smaller fish swim below it using the whaleshark as protection or catching a free ride in it's bow wave. As this gentle giant of the deep pulls away from us we wait to be picked up by the boat reliving this surreal experience with our fellow swimmers. We clamber back into the boat and compose ourselves for our next encounter. After another swim with this whaleshark it takes it's leave and dives down where we cannot follow. Shortly after this a manta ray is spotted. We flow out of the boat but are unable to find it. We return to the boat out of breath and a bit disappointed. However it isn't long before we line up again and swarm back into the ocean. Marie has a bit of a fright when she isn't met by the manta ray she was expecting, but a 5.5 metre whaleshark that was heading straight for her. She was caught between the boat and the shark and had nowhere to go. As a result Marie had the closest view of a shark that day ( lucky girl ). This shark had nothing better to do and was happy to swim slowly along giving us a wonderful experience. All to soon it was over and without realizing we had spent 1 hr 10 mins in the water with these amazing creatures. We had swum with 3 whalesharks ranging from 3.5 to 5.5 metres long.  As the swell was getting worse we headed back to the shelter of the reef where we had lunch. We were amused when the first mate informed us of the rules of lunch. ' Ladies first, followed by the blokes and then the crew, normal portions first and only after everyone has had something can you have backpacker sized portions.' After lunch we had another snorkel before heading back to shore and then back to Exmouth. This experience was one of the major highlights of our trip and Marie and I are so proud of our kids for their enthusiasm and effort. This is one of those family times that will be forever etched into our memories. 

Exmouth bound

Exmouth and the Whalesharks. 
We left Dampier and headed south along the North West Coastal Highway to Exmouth where we were hoping to swim with the famous whalesharks. We didn't like our chances as the season for them to be at Ningaloo Reef was from March to the end of July. As we were arriving mid August we were expecting to be told that the biggest fish in the world had ' left the building'.  We were pleased to find that the Whalesharks don't read the pamphlets and were still in the area and that the cruises were 1/2 price. We booked our seats on the next available trip which was in 3 days. We settled into the caravan park for our stay. The next day we travelled around the coast to the Cape Range National Park first stopping of at the Vlamingh Head Lighthouse were we saw whales cavorting in the distance. Our next stop was the Jurabi Turtle center which wasn't in use due to the turtles being at sea ( wrong season ). We stopped at Ned's Camp and enjoyed the view before heading onto the Milyering Visitor Centre which had a mountain of information and educational videos. After increasing our knowledge we went to Lakeside where we were able to have a swim. We decided to return the next day to take advantage of the snorkel hire and let the kids have a go at snorkeling before going out with the whalesharks. After picking up our snorkeling gear we headed for Turquoise Bay as this had been recommended by the people at the Visitor Center. Turquoise Bay offered a drift snorkel were you enter the water, swim a short distance out to the reef, drift with the current for approximately 200m before returning to the beach where with much enthusiasm you raced back along the beach to do it again.  Each run took roughly 1/2 hour and we saw an enormous variety of fish and other aquatic creatures. Unfortunately on one of the runs Marie and Claire got into some trouble when they found themselves further out than they realized and had to fight the current to get back to shore. Having learnt a valuable lesson we made a few more runs before retiring for the day. We were very proud of Claire for giving it another go after having an unpleasant experience. We returned to Exmouth tired and cold but happy. After tea we headed for bed for tomorrow we were swimming with the Whalesharks !!!!!

Burrup Peninsula 12th August 2011

We decided that there was more to be discovered at Dampier and onthe Peninsula and thus re-visited the NW Gas Shelf VC and then moved onto the Aboriginal Petroglyphs that are found here. This art differs to other art as they are not drawings as such but more like etchings which are initially hard to see but once found can be seen everywhere in the area. It is believed that these petroglyphs may number over 100,000 making it the largest rock art site in the world and was heritage listed in 2007.  These engravings generally depict anthropomorphic figures, fauna, animal tracks & abstract symbols. We mostly saw animals.
From this art site it was down to Hearson's Cove in order to witness "Staircase to the Moon". This is a natural occuring phenomenon which is caused by the rising of the full moon reflecting off the exposed mud flats at extremely low tide thus creating an optical illusion of stairs reaching to the moon. We were however not in luck because by the time that the tide was at it's lowest, the moon had already risen. Oh well, we had fun in the rock pools anyway...

Karratha - Dampier tour Thursday 11th August 2011

We go on a Visitor Centre organized tour of the surrounds. Our first stop is at Australia's largest solar salt fields owned by Dampier Salt which has a total operating area of 10,000 hectares with a current production capability of 4.2 million tonnes / year. Harvested salt is mainly used for chemicals, industrial and road de-icing in Europe.
We then had to don our protective Rio Tinto "gear" for our tour of theParker Point production facilities. Two types of iron ore are exported from here - Lump and Fines. Operations are 24/7, 7 days per week. It is here that the ore trains from Tom Price are unloaded, stock-piled by Stackers (stockpile capacity of 18 X  210,000 tonnes) and scooped up by the Reclaimers to load onto the ships. These ship loaders load 10,000 tonnes per hour and  takes approx. 24-36 hours for 1 export carrier. Interesting, but BHP Billiton & Port Headland have the better facilities.
The next part of the tour takes us to the North West Shelf Venture Visitors' Centre which overlooks he Woodside operated Gas Plant at Karratha and learn about Australia's largest oil and gas resource development.
Following the tour, we make our way around and find Red Dog's Memorial and observe the workings of another FIFO mining town.

Karajini to Karratha Wednesday 10th August 2011

After a stop at the Mt Bruce and a view of Marandoo mine, we moved on through Tom Price en route to Karratha. It was our intention to take the shortened mine road along the railway  but an enquiry at the "I" changed our mind. It was all Rio Tinto rules & besides we didn't want to chew the red iron ore dust at 60kms/hr behind the haulpacks and other mine vehicles. We instead took the scenic route through Rio Tinto Gorge and through the Millstream-Chichester N.P. 
This NP was a complete change from what we had experienced already. Driving between the Millstream & Chichester ranges, the road meanders through rolling,  rounded dome hills dusted in spinifex and snappy gums along with splatterings of Sturt Desert Peas.
On our journey, we are also alongside the long iron ore trains on their journey to the port in Karratha.
We stay out on the Dampier Peninsular for the night.

Karajini National Park Tuesday 9th August 2011

We commence our trailblazing with a steep walk down to the spring-fed permanent Fortescue Falls and onto Fern Pool which was surrounded by ferns. Although the pool looked very inviting, we continued our walk along the gorge floor before reaching Circular Falls. Our ascent out of the gorge and back to Dales Gorge took us past white snappy gums, shady groves of cypress pines and lots of acacia species. 
The afternoon was filled on wih a drive to Joffre and Knox lookouts with Joffre Gorge the more impressive of the two with it's spectacular waterfall forming a natural ampitheatre. We continued onto Oxer & Junction pool Lookouts which provided spectacular views of precipitous cliffs, narrow passages & banded iron rock formations that tower over the valleys far below where the Hancock and   Weano gorges unite.
Of course, like all others in Australia, we completed the 2011 Census.

Newman 7-8 August

After packing up camp we headed down to the port of Port Hedland. We watched some huge ore ships being loaded before taking our leave and moving onto Newman, 400km inland. We settled in for the night for we had to be up early to pack up in order to go on a tour of the Mt Whaleback Mine. Owned by BHP, it is the largest open cut iron ore mine in Australia. We were taken into the mine and up to the lookout which is the highest point in the mine. Although this lookout was perfect for gazing into the depths of the mine, it was actually 150mt lower than when the mine was started. It boggles the mind to imagine the volumes of iron ore and other material that had already been removed. The mine is surrounded by man made mountains that are the overburden that the company have to stockpile in order to rehabilitate the area when mining ceases. We were able to see the huge haulpacks ( dump trucks ) being loaded and the delivery their load to the crushers where the ore was processed prior to being loaded onto trains for the 8hr journey to Port Hedland. We were well informed by the time we returned to the information center where we were able to get up close to some of the huge machines that had been donated to the center. Angus was not happy to see the 'DO NOT CLIMB' signs. We then said farewell to Newman before heading onto Karijini National Park. 

Broome to Port Hedland via Marble Bar 5-6 August

We leave Broome and continue our journey south. After a spot of free camping on the banks of the De Grey River ( located halfway between De White and De Black Rivers!!) we travel onto Marble Bar, the hottest town in Australia. Luckily it's winter and so we don't have to risk melting into the pavement. After discussing the road conditions south to Newman with some locals we decide to backtrack north to Port Hedland. But first we head out to the 'Marble Bar' from which the town gets it's name. We were a bit disappointed when we arrived but after a spell of exploring we were more than impressed with the striking rock formations and colours of the famous Marble Bar which is actually a jasper deposit and not marble. Leaving Marble Bar we head for Port Hedland where we are greeted with massive trains that stretch for kilometers and various ore handling machines that soar into the sky. Angus is almost beside himself at the sight of these enormous manmade structures called Stackers and Reclaimers. After finding a place to stay we settle in for the night. 

Cape Leveque Beagle Bay 4th August

The Sacred Heart Church is our destination for today. We travelled along the Cape Leveque Road which was a bit of a challenge in places. No rocks for once but sections of corrugations and plenty of tree roots that you need to avoid or risk staking a tyre. The church is located at Beagle Bay and was built by the Trappist Monks with the help of the local community. Construction commenced in 1915 and took 2 years to complete. The interior of the church has been exquisitely decorated with mother of pearl, cowries, volutes, and olive shells. The result is a " fusion of traditional Nyul Nyul, Mimanborr and Bard symbols and materials with traditional Christian symbols and European mosaic techniques resulting in a unique expression of art and faith." After spending some time admiring the church we had lunch before heading back to Broome. The Japanese and Chinese cemeteries were our next stop. Due to to the dangerous conditions many of the divers lost their lives and were buried here. We then visited the port before heading back to camp where Claire and Angus spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the beach in front of the caravan park. There we found the Pioneer's Cemetery where a number of Broome's early pioneers have their final resting place overlooking the ocean. A meal of fish and chips finishes off a great day. 

Broome 3rd August 2011

Aahh.... Pearl, pearls, pearls and more pearls. Big ones, small ones, freshwater ones, saltwater ones,  roundand coloured ones, what is a girl to do.
Firstly visited a free Pearl  information centre & exhibit and found out what is real or fake; farming practices and quality issues before wandering Chinatown and enjoying the contradiction of Broome, where historical buildings stand side by side with modern world architecture.
At  "Pearl Luggers", we took an interactive journey through the colourful history of Broome including the multicultural population that were lured by the promise of finding their fortune. We heard enthralling tales of Pearl Master's extravagance and their extravagant lifestyle. We learned more about the life of the diver and how 1 in 3 lost their lives on the first dive and when you see the gear that they wore, you can understand why. We tasted pearl meat which usually retails at $120/kg  in Australia and $400-600/kg on overseas markets. The highlight & finale was where Claire wore a strand of pearls worth $9000 and Angus got to hold one of the world's most perfect pearls worth $100 000. The kids were happy and the parents were very very nervous. 

Windjana to Broome Tuesday 02/08/11

This was an amazing, easy walk where we were able to view life from the Devonian era with a mrine fossil - a nautiloid. Soon brought back to reality by a 3.5m Olive Python just lazing on the sand digesting it's breakfast.
Reflective gorge scenery, lush shady vegetation, noisy corellas and freshwater  crocs sunning themselves on the river bank were also highlights of this walk.
We head along the last of the Gibb river Road to Derby where we  lunch by the jetty. Derby is best known for it's 12m tidal variation, the largest in Australia and 2nd largest in the world. We visit another Prison tree which was once used as an overnight lockup but now housed a swarm of bees. 
Tourists in Derby can also visit the Horizontal Waterfall which is an unusual phenomenon in a narrow gap at the mouth of a large inletin the Buccaneer Archipelago. At high tide the inlet fills, & as he tide turns, the water begins to drain out through the gap. During Spring tides, the rate at which the water is able to escape from the inlet cannot keep pace with the falling tide and thus a horizontal waterfall is produced. We will have to save this for next time as you can only get there by boat or float aircraft and Broome awaits us.

Geike Gorge to Windjana NP Monday 01/08/11

This Gorge was once part of the barrier reef that encircled the Kimberley during the Devonian geological period 350 million years ago. We were disappointed at the walk here as the limestone rocks were still covered in dense silt from the late wet season and were instead fascinated by the flood level markers of the last 12 years.
 We travel along Leopold Downs Road to Tunnel Creek which is an underground passage beneath the limestone Napier range. It was here  that aboriginal police tracker / freedom fighter hid out for 3 years after he killed a policeman. It was easy to see why & how he hid out in the maze of darkness.
Our camp tonight is at Windjana Gorge where we were pleasantly surprised to find not only hot showers but flushing toilets in the middle of nowhere.

Mini Palms to Fitzroy Crossing Sunday 31st July

Our final walk in Purnululu NP has us walking along a stony riverbed clambering over large conglomerate rocks, among tall Livingstonia palms and high cliffs. Termites and palms seem to balance precariously high above the ground. The path ends in a large cavern, an awesome sight.
We make our way through Hall's Creek and make camp at  Fitzroy  Crossing. We spot our first clouds for weeks just as the sun is setting.

Picaninny Gorge to Echidna Chasm Saturday 30th July 2011

Purnululu National park covers approx. 45000 hectares with an array of banded sandstone domes and conglomerate and we head along Picaninny Creek in order to see these domes towering majestically around us. We continue our walk onto Cathedral Gorge through striped domes, pebbles, potholes & honeycomb rocks that lead to an ampitheatre. Here an elderly gentleman entertains the crowd with his singing before we are all singing "Walzing Matilda".
We drive to the other end of the park for the walk to Echidna Chasm which was a spectacular walk which was completely different to the others. Instead of the honeycomb domes, we were greeted with a trudge along a stony creek bed before having steep conglomerate walls narrow to form a chasm just a metre wide. Our day was competed with a sunset view of the western face of the Bungles at Kungkalanyi Lookout.

Bungles Bound - Friday 29/7/11

Packed up camp and hit the road for Purnululu National Park. As we had heard that the road in was rough and hard going we allowed 3hrs to travel the 50km into the park. We stopped outside the park and had lunch. This gave the tyres a chance to cool before we dropped the pressure in them for the rough ride in. We had a fun drive with 109 watercourse crossings (78 dry and 31 wet) and arrived at the visitor's center 1.5 hrs later.

We found the road wasn't as bad as we had been told (road conditions are dependent on recent weather and when the grader has been through). After paying the required fees we headed for our campsite where we setup the tent before heading for the nearby lookout for a beautiful view of the sun setting over the southern part of the Bungle Bungles.

We also had the unexpected visit of a paraglider  we had seen on our flight yesterday who was using the lookout for his landing site. His name was Ben and he was taking photos of the Bungles. Whether he had permission or not was anybody's guess.

Scenic flight & El Questro Thursday 28/7/11

Up early for a flight, as we depart Kununurra , we fly over the Ord River Irrigation Area, Argyle Spillway & Top Dam as well as the Main Dam Wall and the Ord Hydropower station which provides power to Kununurra & Wyndham region. The flight continues over Lake Argyle and over Zebra Rock Peninsula which holds the world's only known deposits of the unique rock. It is a fine grain sandstone with rhythmic pattern of reddish stripes or spots against a white background.

Our flight continued over Lissadelle andTexas Downs Cattle stations which are separated by the boundary of Bow River. The pastoral leases are huge in the Kimberley, averaging 250000 hectares but the stocking rate is low with 2-3 cattle/km2 or 8 beasts/km2 on river frontage.

We have 20 minutes over The Bungle Bungles where we see the beehive shaped domes. These sandstone towers were formed over millions of years from sandstone and conglomerate from weathering by wind, rain and flowing water. The domes have formed case hardened skins which have a striped appearance, with layers of orange and dark grey resembling tiger skin. The grey bands are formed by Cyanobacteria - a single celled organism.

The Cyanobacterial grow on layers of sandstone where moisture accumulates. The orange bands are oxidised iron compounds that have dried out too quickly for the Cyanobacteria to grow.

Our flight over the Bungles came to an end as we meandered along Piccaninny Gorge & Creek & we saw the site where QANTAS filmed "I still call Australia Home" ad.

We return back over Rio Tinto's Argyle Diamond Mine which is the world's largest diamond mine, producing between 1/4 and 1/5 of the world's diamonds, equating to an average of 20 million carats of diamonds per year This mine is known for it's coloured diamonds, especially the intense pink diamonds - it's signature stone.

We arrive back in Kununurra after 2 hours & following a hearty Aussie brekkie we head out to El Expenso (oops I mean El Questro). Our first stop is Zebedee Springs for a foot splash in warm water before the paying guests arrive and the rangers get their whips out.

A look around El Questro Wilderness park has us proceeding to Emma Gorge. This is one of the Kimberley region's most well known and spectacular gorges. We enjoyed the walk & also the invigorating thermal trickle of water into a small pool which then plunges into a huge waterhole with a droplet waterfall enclosed on 3 sides by 65m sheer cliffs. We all brave the water with the older and more sensible sticking to the warmer areas. Angus however makes the most of this beautiful body of water and proceeds to do his icecube impression followed reluctantly by his more sensible sister. We then head back to Kununurra weary but happy. 

Kununurra to Wyndham and back ( just ) 27/7/11.

After a quiet catch-up day on Tuesday, we were on the road for a day trip 100km up the road to Wyndham, the most northern town in WA. Our first stop in Wyndham is the big croc, a 20m long statue that greets visitors to the town. Here we saw a local Aboriginal man brilliantly carving Boab pods, he said that he had been doing it since 5 years of age and he looked about 65 yo. 

From there we travel up the Bastion Range to the Five Rivers Lookout. From there we are able to identify the King, Ord, Durack, Forrest, and the Pentacost rivers flowing into the Cambridge Gulf. We also spend time watching numerous industrial activities including a ship being loaded from a barge and roadtrains delivering ? iron ore or bauxite.

On the way out of town, we visited an Afghan Cemetery which contains the graves of the early Afghan settlers & cameleers (1890's) who provided an important means of transport between the cattle stations & the towns of the region. The graves are large due to the lead camel often being buried with it's master.

We turn onto King River Road and travel along salt pans and more corrugations to an Aboriginal Art site and a Prison Tree. It was here that prisoners were detained in the hollow Boab. Past Digger's Rest Station, we travel via the Karunjie Track.

This track is a 52km "short cut" from Wyndham to the Gibb River road however it takes about 3 1/2 hours over not only corrugations, river crossings, deep bull-dust and lots of wash-outs but also offered scenic views of the Cockburn Range.

 We added a half hour to the trip when Mum got bogged in a table drain full of black soil and required a tow by a stockman doing the boundary run with his parents (who incidentally are from Beaudesert).

We washed off the mud when we crossed the Pentacost River and headed back into Kunnunurra via the Gibb River Road.

Big Horse Creek to Kununurra Monday 25th July

Located in Gregory National Park is a large Boab tree that stands at the campsite of explorer Augustus Gregory as he started his Northern Austrian expedition undertaken October 1855 until July 1856.

We have to relinquish very little to the quarantine bin at the border as we learnt from others who had a less fortunate experience last year.

We visited Lake Argyle which is the largest man made lake in Australia. It was formed in 1972 after damming the Ord River and is designed to hold 10 763 000 megalitres and covers 1000 m2. For navigation purposes, it is classified as an inland sea.

We have a scenic croc spotting adventure on Spillway Creek before heading for the dam wall up the top. After our site-seeing we head into Kununurra where we set up camp at Kimberlyland Caravan Park with a view overlooking Lake Kununurra.

Western Australia bound. Sunday 24th July

After speaking with various 4WD owners and visitor centres, we decide that the road to Jim Jim Falls can wait for us to visit another day, next time with a snorkel. Twin Falls has been temporarily closed, all due to the late wet season.
Through Katherine and onto the Victoria Highway, through Gregory National Park and over the Victoria River Crossing. This NP is the Northern Territory's 2nd largest park and features spectacular landscapes of deep valleys and gorges, grassy plains, ancient boab trees and of course the Victoria River.

We make camp at Big Horse Creek, still in the NP.

Kakadu Saturday, 23rd July 2011

Up early and into the car for a quick drive to the Mardugal camp ground for a ranger led walk through the woodland of this region. The varied ecological areas in Kakadu are incredible ranging from tidal flats, stone country, monsoon forests, savanna woodlands, floodplains and billabongs. After our walk, we headed back to camp where we decided to drive down a nearby track to sandy billabong where we found an idyllic waterside area to have lunch. After absorbing the views and our lunch we set off for more exploring of the park. We headed to the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. This building resembles the pig-nosed turtle from which it shares it's name, and houses a wide range of informative displays of traditional life and early colonial history.

From there we headed to the Yellow Water Wetlands and to Cooinda. From there the road took us to Maguk and a wander through monsoon forest and along a sandy and rocky creek to a small waterfall and plunge pool before heading back to camp for a well earned rest. 

Kakadu 22nd July 2011

After surviving the mossie bombardment and discovering a black snake that had been smothered by trying to sleep under the tent, we attended a traditional painting demonstration by two men from Arnhem land. We learnt how to make paint brushes from river reeds and were then given the chance to use them.  

We headed for Muriella Park were we set up camp again. After we had settled in we set off for  more rock art at Noulangie. Another informative ranger talk, this time about Namarrgon (Lightning Man) and more impressive scenery.

Back to camp where we were delighted to see the squadrons of flying taxmen from the previous night hadn't made the journey with us.

Entering Kakadu 21st July

  

We pick up our park passes and enjoy the exhibits and presentations at Bowali Visitor Centre before setting up camp at Merl campground. We spend some of the arvo at Cahill's Crossing which is the main river crossing into northern Arhnem Land. We were fortunate to arrive there at the peak of high tide. We saw 4 large salties and numerous non reptiles fishing for barra at the crossing. We observed the rapid reseeding of the water level - about 700mm in just 20 minutes. In this time we saw some brave locals crossing in their vehicles with water washing over their bonnets. Some had snorkels, some didn't. All while a salty watched from about 15m from them, probably wondering where he left his tin snips.

We attend ranger guided walks at Ubirr past several rock art sites which are different from those at Uluru as these are xray and contact art. We learn about aboriginal law, moiety, creation & kinship as well as the Rainbow Serpent.

The day finished upon a rocky lookout with a sunset view of the Nadab floodplain at Ubirr.